While in the Mosel region this last July, I had the very good fortune to meet with the proprietor of one of my favorite Riesling producers, Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch, Erben Thanisch located along side the famous river in Beernkastel-Kues. It was on a beautiful sunny afternoon that our family was so graciously welcomed by Sofia Thanisch, the fourth generation woman manager of the estate. As we sat down in the backyard patio area of the family’s late nineteenth century house, Sofia poured the first of several sublime expressions of Riesling for which they are famous: the Berncasteler Doctor and the Berncasteler Badstube, vineyards which rise up behind the village of Bernkastel.
These south and southwest facing vineyards are two of the finest sites for high quality Riesling in all of Germany. (There is a fascinating picture on their website showing the snow covered vineyards surrounding Doctor and Badstube, but none on these two sites because of the direct sun.) While tasting the wines, Sofia described how her ancestors had been involved with wine growing there as far back as the early Seventeenth century. It was Dr. Hugo Thanisch that established the estate winery in 1895, and not long after was receiving world acclaim for their Rieslings. That tradition, to this day, remains unbroken in their expression of elegance and finesse, detail, complexity and impeccable balance. Whether you are new to German Rieslings, or have already collected and tasted the wines of various producers, be sure not to miss the wines from this great estate. For more information, check their website.
This energetic wine shows great vibrancy and lift with bright flavors of citrus, apple and peach with a subtle minerality coming through. The balance of fruit and acidity is perfect, and leads to a very long elegant finish. Although showing great for drinking now, it will age gracefully and take on even more complexity and plush ripeness. Have it with seafood, pork and Asian cuisine.
Gary M., Beltramo’s Wine Consultant