2011 La Malkerida – 100% Bobal – Spain – ($14.99)

This wine is produced from 70 to 80 year Bobal vines, located in the south east of Spain near Valencia. It is unoaked, which I think gives the wine a nice lift of fresh dark fruit aromatics and flavors.  It also has a weight somewhat similar to Pinot Noir, so it is versatile with a variety of dishes. Almost as interesting as the wine itself, is how it came to be.  It was produced as a result of a collaboration between Bruno Murciano, an award winning sommelier, and the oenologist, David Sampedro, based in Rioja Alavesa.  Bruno grew up in Valencia and was accustomed to Bobal from an early age.  This wine reflects his belief that Bobal has long been overlooked, hence the name, La Malkerida, which translates to “unloved.”   I suggest you give it a try, and I think you definitely won’t find it too hard to love.  Speaking of love, this will work nicely for that upcoming Valentine’s Day dinner, too!

2009 Stepping Stone - 100% Cabernet Franc – Napa Valley – ($29.99)

For those of you who are fans of Cabernet Franc, or simply would like to try it sometime, give this one a go!  Crafted by Cornerstone Cellars winemaker, Jeff Keene, this one is a real beauty displaying the varietal’s classic and intriguing combination of red and black fruit, slight herb and tobacco. The texture glides all the way through the lengthy finish. If you thought Cabernet Franc was reserved for the Right Bank of Bordeaux, or the Loire Valley, then I think this wine can convince you this varietal is quite at home here in California as well.  And, you’re definitely getting your money’s worth for the price.  Cook up a special dinner for this one!

Gary M., Beltramo’s Wine Consultant

No, this isn’t one of those promos like you often see on web sites where everything you read sounds too good to be true, then you have to pay up to find out what it is.  I’ll actually tell you what I am talking about for free!  Yes, partly because it’s my job, but even if I wasn’t a wine retailer I’d be stopping you on the street to tell you about these wines.

If you guessed old vintage Gran Reserva wines from Spain, then you must be well traveled or a Master of Wine candidate because you are correct.  Anyway, Gran Reserva wines are, as stated in Jancis Robinson’s The Oxford Companion to Wine, defined as follows: “Spanish term for a wine supposedly from an outstanding vintage which has been subject to lengthy ageing before release.  Red wines must spend a minimum of two years in barriques, and another three years in tank or bottle.  The wine may not leave the bodega (winery) until the sixth year after the vintage.”  Usually the wines are held for a decade and often decades.

So there you have it, thanks to the great “sell no wine before its time” tradition of cellaring wines until they are more drinkable and complex, you can enjoy beautiful older vintage wines at an affordable price.   And, I’m sure you saw this coming, it just so happens that we have four excellent bottlings from the Rioja region which I highly recommend.

Check these out while they are still available:

• 2001 La Rioja Alta “Vina Ardanza Reserva Especial” (80% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha) at $28.99.
• 2001 Bodegas Riojanas “Monte Real Gran Reserva” (80% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, 5% Graciano) at $32.99.
• 1998 Bodegas Riojanas “Vina Albina Gran Reserva” (80% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, 5% Graciano) at $35.99
• 1998 Bodegas Riojanas “Monte Real Gran Reserva” ( 80% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, 5% Graciano) at $39.99

Although all the wines are outstanding, I particularly enjoyed the flavors in the Vina Ardanza Reserva Especial.  Since I am not a poet, which you almost need to be in order to capture the intrigue and nuance of this wine, here’s a basic description from the winery:

“Medium-high cherry red robe, with orange tinted tones on the edge of the glass, clear and brilliant, intense and complex on the nose.  Wild berry aromas predominate, blended with hints of coconut, cinnamon, tobacco and leather.  Full-bodied and well structured to the palate, with silky and enveloping tannins.  Long after-taste acquired from its lengthy time in bottle, where its elegant bouquet gains intensity.”  Believe me, they aren’t kidding about the silky part.

Cook up a nice dinner, say a pork roast, lamb or filet, or just sit by the fire and sip away on one of these.  I think you will truly enjoy the experience.  Let me know if you try one: garym@beltramos.com.  Enjoy!

 Gary M, Beltramo’s Wine Consultant

So if you’re looking to take a break from the usual and try something different, these are happy days. Of course, trying something different should be enjoyable and need not be that far removed from the wines you know. If you can’t figure out which varietal a wine is made from, or can and have no idea what it might taste like, ask us and we can make a comparison. We can give you an idea of what to expect and set you up with something new and interesting.

If your usual is a dry white, try the Berroia Txakolina ($17.99)which is 90% Hondarrabi Zuri and a delicious example of the primary white wine of the Basque region of Spain. Light-bodied and crisp, it has a refreshing character accented by just enough spritz to tickle your tongue. From the Monterey area, try the Cambiata Albariño ($17.99), a varietal originally from further west in Spain and into Portugal that enjoys being planted in California as well. Still light-bodied but with a bit more texture than the Txakolina and dry but not as crisp on the finish, it has established a fan base with us that will readily admit new members.  

For whites that are fragrant but not heavy, enjoy the aforementioned Irsai Oliver ($10.99) from Matyas Szoke in Hungary. It is delightfully fragrant, the parent grapes are Gewurztraminer and Muskat after all, and there is texture as well as weight with a lingering finish. A little less fragrant but possessing textbook old-vine texture and depth is the Albert Mann Auxerrois ($17.99), an organic wine from Alsace. Domaine Albert Mann was recently selected Winemakers of the Year by the Revue du Vin de France and this bottling is one of very, very few that I’ve seen of this cross between Gouais Blanc and Pinot Noir. Another stunning old-vine white is the Scala Dei “Les Brugueres” ($29.99) from the Priorat region near Barcelona. This is made from very old Grenache Blanc vines grown on steep “soil” that is a delight and education to sit down with and follow as it evolves in the glass. For a wine with such texture to have its intrigue outweigh its unctuous is remarkable and worth much more than the price of admission.

For red drinkers Italy is a playground these days, there are the hundreds of native varietals and more and more they are being made into serious wines rather than the carafe of Vino Rosso that used to be their destination. Two medium-bodied examples are the Colle Ticchio Cesanese ($15.99) from the Lazio region, a perfect match for the hearty pasta dishes we’re eating in mid-winter, and the Vestini Campagnano “Kajanero” ($15.99), which is due an award for quality and for combining Pallagrello, Casavecchia, Pizzutella and Aglianico. Both of these wines have the classic Italian combination of food-wine weight, spice and acidity that enable them to cozy up to a range of dishes and hold your attention if the food is not equally detailed. One of the few, if only, bottlings of Charbono ($19.99) that you’ll ever see comes from Summers Estate in Calistoga. Summers has preserved this vineyard and makes a fruit-driven, subtly spicy red that is food-versatile and thoroughly enjoyable to sip on its own.

Those of you seeking reds with more structure can look into the Aglianico by Bisceglia ($14.99) or the Zweigelt by Beck ($15.99). These wines both offer more structure and a core of fruit but have smooth, polished tannins and the core is not dense, they are drinkable now and inexpensive to boot! The Bisceglia ($14.99) comes from the lower slopes of an extinct volcano and has a typical Aglianico minerality overlaid with fruit that is unobstructed by oak. The Beck Zweigelt ($15.99) is an affordable look at the high quality of Austria’s red wines. The Beck has the structure but not the density of a Cabernet, with brighter, more red-tone fruit and just a touch of blueberry that is reminiscent of Australian Shiraz without the jammy texture.

So if you’re looking for a change of pace, try these and then ask us to set some more aside. Or tell us what you liked about your new varietal and we’ll give you a couple more to try.

Matt S., Beltramo’s Wine Consultant

Australia

The Yalumba winery produces high quality from $10.00 to $100.00. The Y Series wines across the board are bargains worth your attention. I particularly liked the 2010 Cabernet ($10.99). Winsor Dobbin, Sauce Magazine – Tasmania (Aus) writes: “The Yalumba Y wines are a perfect option when cash is tight and you need a quality bottle of wine. The 2010 Cabernet is a dark purple color with blackcurrant, crushed flower and violet aromas, full-blooded fruit flavors with spice, oak and mocha notes. In short it’s a quality cabernet offering lots of bang for your buck.”

Pewsey Vale Winery continues to turn out some of the finest, juicy, mouthwatering dry Rieslings for value on the planet. The 2011 Eden Valley Riesling  ($14.99) is no exception. Produced from cool climate, high altitude vineyards, this Riesling sizzles with lime/citrus, hard candy and mineral aromas and flavors. Beautiful palate feel, mouth-coating and long.

France

I had the opportunity to taste through the new releases from Domaine Cazes last year in France. The wineries specialties are the delicious sweet wines from Rivesaltes, but they also make tasty table wines. Try the 2010 Le Canon du Marechal Blanc ($12.99). This was one of my favorite whites from my trip through southern France. An aromatic, delicate white blend of Muscat and Viognier made of Certified Bio-dynamic grapes.

Another find from southern France made exclusively from Viognier is Chateau de Pennautier’s  Viognier de Pennautier ($10.99). This winery dates back to 1620 and made their first wines in 1701. If you want to taste what Viognier is like without the influence of heavy-handed barrel spice, this wines for you. Pure, fragrant, floral, peach aromas and flavors. Never heavy or sweet. Clean and fresh. Compare to California Viognier at two to three times the price.

A miniscule 500 cases of the delicious 2010 Chateau Astruc Ste Eulalie Minervois ($10.99) is produced. An impressive blend of Syrah, Carignan, and Grenache, this wine is a knockout. Sophisticated aromas of violets, gentle smoke, spice and berries. Fleshy, impeccable balance. A top-notch alternative to more expensive Rhône wines.

2010 will be another very good to excellent year for the Rhône and Southern France as you can tell by my enthusiasm for the afore mentioned wines. Domaine Paul Autard’s Côtes du Rhône ($12.99) is good barometer of the quality produced from the region in 2010. Importer Russel Herman writes:”The Côtes du Rhône is made from 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah grapes just outside the Châteauneuf du Pape appellation in Courthezon. It’s a smoky, complex wine loaded with warm raspberry fruit, showing many of the best attributes of Châteauneuf du Pape. It is ready for current drinking… and represents one of the best values from southern France.”

Another tasty value from the Rhône in 2010 is the Les Vignerons d’Estezargues d’Andezon Côtes du Rhône ($10.99). Robert Parker The Wine Advocate rated this wine 91 points and says: “The classic cuvee, which has long been selected by importer Eric Solomon, is their 2010 Domaine d’Andezon, a blend of 90% Syrah and 10% Grenache. While there are critics of Syrah grown in the southern Rhone, even the cynics agree that the old-vine Syrah from the Gard has a special character to it. This wine comes from 40+-year-old Syrah vines and 60+-year-old Grenache vines, bottled unfined and unfiltered after being aged in both tank and concrete. Dense ruby/purple, with a stunning nose of blackberry liqueur and jus de viande (beef/meat juices), it’s thrilling, intensely pure, full-bodied mouthfeel, good freshness, and striking floral character all combine for one of the very best bargains in dry red wine that readers are likely to find anywhere in the world. This is super and should continue to drink well for another 3-4 years.”

Italy

I wrote about  Cleto Chiarli’s Lambrusco ($10.99) in an earlier article in November 2011. It’s worth noting again the merits of this delicious fizz, in this context as a value sparkling wine: “Obtained by a careful grape selection of the ancient “Grasparossa” vine cultivated on the hills surrounding Castelvetro village in the Modena province. Deep ruby red color with a pink froth. Fruity aroma and palate, typical of this varietal, which are very pleasant indeed. Thanks to a rational and slow fermentation the wine has a distinct softness and delicacy. It can be a wine for dessert as well as a wine for the typical dishes of the local cuisine.” Dalla Terra Importer 

Argiano hit it out of the park with the new release of the 2009 Non Confunditur ($15.99). “Non Confunditur” is the Latin term written on Argiano’s crest and was the motto of the former owners, the Lovatelli Gaetani d’Aragona family. A blend of Tuscan and French grapes, the 2009 might be the best vintage for this wine I’ve tasted. Clove/allspice, savoury aromas. Black fruit, spice flavors. Juicy acidity adds a nice punch to the wine.

Two wines I’d highly recommend from Vietti winery in Piemonte are the 2009 Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne ($15.99) and the 2007 Barolo Castiglione ($39.99). Vietti winery writes about the Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne: “Ruby purple color with ripe red cherry aromas with hints of mineral and vanilla. A dry, medium bodied red wine with refreshing acidity and soft tannins. Well balanced with good integration of oak, good complexity and a finish of red cherries.” You might say $40.00 for a bottle of wine a value?  But hold on. The Barolo Castiglione bottlings from Vietti can, in most vintages, represent the best value in Barolo. The 2007 again, might represent the best value in Barolo. This wine is flying off the shelf and will easily eclipse the phenomenal success of the 2004 vintage. Rated 93 points from Antonio Galloni at The Wine Advocate, he writes: “The 2007 Barolo Castiglione deftly balances the open, radiant personality of the vintage with considerable underlying structure. Warm, dense and full-bodied, the 2007 Barolo Castiglione flows effortlessly across the palate with generous fruit and fabulous overall balance. The wine was even better when I tasted it from bottle a few months later. It is another overachieving wine from Vietti and a bottle that is exceedingly fairly priced.”

Spain

Celler Pinol’s Ludivicus Tinto ($10.99) is a must buy. A blend of Garnacha, Syrah and Carinena from the Terra Alta district in the Tarragona province of northeastern Spain. Lovely, pure, fresh berry flavors that possess a hint of tension in the finish. Delicious.

The 2010 Bielsa ‘Viñas Viejas’ Garnacha ($10.99) is another stellar, value offering from  this producer from Campo de Borja. Easy to like, uncomplicated aromas of raspberry, cranberry and cherry kirsch. Fleshy, seamless texture.

Howard Padgett, Imported Wine Buyer

I was surprised at the similarities of my tasting notes five years apart. Scribbled in my wire-bound Memo notebook regarding the 2004 As Sortes, I had written “Piercing mineral aromas, gentle perfume, transparent (Chablis)?  Chiseled texture. Long, classy.” The first vintage I tasted of La Conreria d’Scala Dei Les Brugueres Priorat Blanco was 2005. I wrote: “Wicked aromas, fresh, fragrant, fruity, citrus. Tremendous length, energy. A remarkable, single-varietal white wine (Grenache Blanc).” You could easily transpose those notes from those two prior vintages onto the current vintages, and they would be fairly accurate.

Consistently one of the finest Albarinos produced in Spain is Pazo Señorans from a beautiful, family-owned estate with incredible history. Jay Miller of the Wine Advocate writes: “The 2010 Albarino (93 points) was aged in small stainless steel vats sur lie with batonnage for 4 months. Jasmine, mineral, lemon zest, and other citrus notes inform the nose of this multi-dimensional, already complex white. On the palate tropical flavors emerge adding to the wine’s pleasure quotient. Drink this superb effort over the next 3-4 years. As usual, Pazo de Señorans has made one of the finest Albarinos of the vintage.”