In more recent time, California is often known for big and beefy Napa Cabernet and rich and fruity Chardonnay, both very popular styles for good reason. However, California is well known for having the gift of numerous micro climates, innovative wine makers, and a variety of soils that to this day continue to buck tradition and deliver wines of similar earthiness and old world style, while still retaining key characteristics that put California wine on the map in the first place. Come along as we explore off the beaten path, and find a vaguely familiar, but very different sense of place. Like a toast at the beginning of a meal, we begin with sparkling wine.

In Champagne, the traditional method of making a sparkling wine in which the wine undergoes a secondary fermentation inside the bottle, is a practice that had been perfected by monks by hundreds of years of trial and error, and is used today to great affect by Roederer Estate in Anderson Valley, Mendocino. Founded in early 1980 by Louis Roederer, president of the world renowned Champagne Louis Roederer, Anderson Valley was selected for its cooler microclimate and favorable soils. At $17.99 per bottle, Roederer Estate Brut NV is a California sparkling wine that stays true to its traditional origins, the end result being a sparkling wine with excellent effervescence, creamy texture, and bready aromas yielding to a fruity bouquet, and will cost you a lot less than most entry level Champagne. Cheers to that!

One important philosophy in France that has become just as important here in California is that of “Terroir,” or a sense of place. In Chablis, that sense of place is defined by the cool crisp air and the limestone rich kimmeridgian soils that help bring out the acid of the Chardonnay grape, and lend to it its signature mineral character. A similar sense of place can be found in the area of Portola Valley within the northern part of the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, were Chardonnay specialist Varner has situated itself. In an area with great diversity in soil, the Amphitheater Block sits on a bed of limestone rich, clay and loam soil similar of Chablis’ kimmeridgian, and enjoys a consistently cool climate. Along with very subtle oak and little to no butteriness, 2010 Varner Amphitheater Chardonnay is steely and mineraly with crisp acidity, without going overboard with California’s signature pineapple flavors. At $43.99, it is an excellent chardonnay that can stand up to some of the best of Chablis, and is excellent with the local sea food catch in the bay area.

Lastly, continuing on with the importance of terroir, the Côte de Nuits of Burgundy is well known for its Pinot Noir of great structure and assertiveness, thanks to the chalky soils that help bring out the acid and minerality that Pinot Noir thrives best in. No one outside of Burgundy knows this better then Josh Jenson, founder of Mt. Harlan AVA’s exclusive vineyard, Calera. Jensen, having personally worked harvests for Domaine Romanee-Conti in Vosne Romanee and Domaine Dujac in Morey St Denis, experienced first-hand the importance of chalky subsoil and cooler climate for Pinot Noir, and searched all over California looking for the perfect spot for his winery, eventually finding himself in the Gabilan Mountains of San Benito County, where he took over the derelict remains of an old limestone quarry and single handedly established Mt Harlan as an AVA. With six vineyards dedicated to Pinot Noir, the characteristics of one vineyard right next to another vary wildly, very much like the vineyards in the Côte de Nuits. The 2009 Ryan vineyard for $37.99 is rich and robust, however yields great complexity of fruit and earth with decanting, and can age for a long time. A far cry from Hearty Burgundy!

The wine world is finicky and constantly changing. Old ideologies that were once mainstream, like the belief that Old World has finesse and earthiness while New World is fruit driven and plush, quickly grow out of date with each passing vintage. Even in the Old World there are more and more producers who create wines that embrace newer world styles that can throw off even the most studious of Sommeliers. To keep up with the constantly changing world of wine, and to get the most out of the beverage you have grown to love, I will always recommend to push one’s boundaries, and to expect the unexpected. Saluté!

James L., Beltramo’s Wine Consultant

Located roughly 90 miles north of San Francisco cutting through the coastal range, the western tip of the Anderson Valley is only a few miles from the Pacific Ocean while the tiny town of Boonville lies 20 miles to the east inland. The Anderson Valley name is credited to the Walter Anderson Family who in 1845 left Missouri and headed out west seeking gold, new land, and new opportunity. By chance they landed in this irrefutable Eden surrounded by dense redwoods on the southwest side and grassy hills to the northeast.

It wasn’t until 1964 that the modern era of wine-growing and wine-making in Anderson Valley came into play. Leading the charge was Dr. Donald Edmeades who planted 24 acres of premium wine grapes: Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Following Dr. Edmeades lead was Tony and Gretchen Husch who crushed their first grapes in 1971 and founded Husch Vineyards, Anderson Valley’s first commercial winery since prohibition. Many have pursued the success of Husch and Edmeades, notably Ted Benett of Navarro Vineyards who refers to the Anderson Valley’s emphasis “on content, not appearance” as well as the world class French Champagne House Louis Roederer which built a California sparkling wine facility in the Anderson Valley in the early 1980’s.

The Anderson Valley AVA, one of ten AVA’s in the Mendocino County, is a 15 mile stretch that has become well known for its cool climate grape varietals like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and the aromatic whites such as Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Riesling. And with 28% of vineyard acreage certified organic or bio-dynamic, Mendocino wine country is considered the “greenest” wine region in the U.S… I highly recommend making a trip through Mendocino and visiting all the down to earth and friendly wineries but if time doesn’t permit you, please come on into Beltramo’s and try some of my favorite Mendocino wines:

Husch Anderson Valley Gewurztraminer 2009 ($11.99): Producer’s notes: “aromas of pineapple, honeysuckle…flavors of ripe melon, lychees and an inviting spice character.” An excellent value wine!

Terra Savia Mendocino Chardonnay 2009 ($11.99): Made with estate grown organic grapes, this is one of my favorite un-oaked Chardonnays. An excellent food wine, with a very refreshing style with plenty of citrus fruit flavors.

Drew Gatekeepers Blend Mendocino Ridge Pinot Noir 2009 ($27.99): A blend of two ridge top vineyards 2000+ ft. in elevation and less than 10 miles from the ocean: Manchester Ridge Vineyard and Perli Vineyard. Heavy aromas of rose, violets, tea leaf; hint of spearmint; light mineral notes.  Full of lively flavors of dark cherry, spices. A bit Burgundian in style.

Goldeneye Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2009 ($49.99): A blend of four different estate vineyards: Confluence, Gowan Creek, Narrows, and Abel Vineyards. Excellent tannic structure, supported by ripe cherry and blueberry flavors, balanced use of oak and refreshing acidity.

Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut ($17.99): A multi-vintage cuvee made in the traditional Roederer style, known for its body, finesse and depth of flavor. 60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir. Notes of crisp apple, lemon tart, and touch of yeast. Flavors are creamy with pear and baked apple characteristics.

Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut Rose ($24.99): 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay. Slight Salmon tinge, wonderful crisp acidity and full round flavors of bright cherry, strawberry, red apples and touch of minerality.

Will Sundquist- Beltramo’s Wine Consultant and Assistant Manager