Located roughly 90 miles north of San Francisco cutting through the coastal range, the western tip of the Anderson Valley is only a few miles from the Pacific Ocean while the tiny town of Boonville lies 20 miles to the east inland. The Anderson Valley name is credited to the Walter Anderson Family who in 1845 left Missouri and headed out west seeking gold, new land, and new opportunity. By chance they landed in this irrefutable Eden surrounded by dense redwoods on the southwest side and grassy hills to the northeast.

It wasn’t until 1964 that the modern era of wine-growing and wine-making in Anderson Valley came into play. Leading the charge was Dr. Donald Edmeades who planted 24 acres of premium wine grapes: Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Following Dr. Edmeades lead was Tony and Gretchen Husch who crushed their first grapes in 1971 and founded Husch Vineyards, Anderson Valley’s first commercial winery since prohibition. Many have pursued the success of Husch and Edmeades, notably Ted Benett of Navarro Vineyards who refers to the Anderson Valley’s emphasis “on content, not appearance” as well as the world class French Champagne House Louis Roederer which built a California sparkling wine facility in the Anderson Valley in the early 1980’s.

The Anderson Valley AVA, one of ten AVA’s in the Mendocino County, is a 15 mile stretch that has become well known for its cool climate grape varietals like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and the aromatic whites such as Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Riesling. And with 28% of vineyard acreage certified organic or bio-dynamic, Mendocino wine country is considered the “greenest” wine region in the U.S… I highly recommend making a trip through Mendocino and visiting all the down to earth and friendly wineries but if time doesn’t permit you, please come on into Beltramo’s and try some of my favorite Mendocino wines:

Husch Anderson Valley Gewurztraminer 2009 ($11.99): Producer’s notes: “aromas of pineapple, honeysuckle…flavors of ripe melon, lychees and an inviting spice character.” An excellent value wine!

Terra Savia Mendocino Chardonnay 2009 ($11.99): Made with estate grown organic grapes, this is one of my favorite un-oaked Chardonnays. An excellent food wine, with a very refreshing style with plenty of citrus fruit flavors.

Drew Gatekeepers Blend Mendocino Ridge Pinot Noir 2009 ($27.99): A blend of two ridge top vineyards 2000+ ft. in elevation and less than 10 miles from the ocean: Manchester Ridge Vineyard and Perli Vineyard. Heavy aromas of rose, violets, tea leaf; hint of spearmint; light mineral notes.  Full of lively flavors of dark cherry, spices. A bit Burgundian in style.

Goldeneye Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2009 ($49.99): A blend of four different estate vineyards: Confluence, Gowan Creek, Narrows, and Abel Vineyards. Excellent tannic structure, supported by ripe cherry and blueberry flavors, balanced use of oak and refreshing acidity.

Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut ($17.99): A multi-vintage cuvee made in the traditional Roederer style, known for its body, finesse and depth of flavor. 60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir. Notes of crisp apple, lemon tart, and touch of yeast. Flavors are creamy with pear and baked apple characteristics.

Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut Rose ($24.99): 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay. Slight Salmon tinge, wonderful crisp acidity and full round flavors of bright cherry, strawberry, red apples and touch of minerality.

Will Sundquist- Beltramo’s Wine Consultant and Assistant Manager

So if you’re looking to take a break from the usual and try something different, these are happy days. Of course, trying something different should be enjoyable and need not be that far removed from the wines you know. If you can’t figure out which varietal a wine is made from, or can and have no idea what it might taste like, ask us and we can make a comparison. We can give you an idea of what to expect and set you up with something new and interesting.

If your usual is a dry white, try the Berroia Txakolina ($17.99)which is 90% Hondarrabi Zuri and a delicious example of the primary white wine of the Basque region of Spain. Light-bodied and crisp, it has a refreshing character accented by just enough spritz to tickle your tongue. From the Monterey area, try the Cambiata Albariño ($17.99), a varietal originally from further west in Spain and into Portugal that enjoys being planted in California as well. Still light-bodied but with a bit more texture than the Txakolina and dry but not as crisp on the finish, it has established a fan base with us that will readily admit new members.  

For whites that are fragrant but not heavy, enjoy the aforementioned Irsai Oliver ($10.99) from Matyas Szoke in Hungary. It is delightfully fragrant, the parent grapes are Gewurztraminer and Muskat after all, and there is texture as well as weight with a lingering finish. A little less fragrant but possessing textbook old-vine texture and depth is the Albert Mann Auxerrois ($17.99), an organic wine from Alsace. Domaine Albert Mann was recently selected Winemakers of the Year by the Revue du Vin de France and this bottling is one of very, very few that I’ve seen of this cross between Gouais Blanc and Pinot Noir. Another stunning old-vine white is the Scala Dei “Les Brugueres” ($29.99) from the Priorat region near Barcelona. This is made from very old Grenache Blanc vines grown on steep “soil” that is a delight and education to sit down with and follow as it evolves in the glass. For a wine with such texture to have its intrigue outweigh its unctuous is remarkable and worth much more than the price of admission.

For red drinkers Italy is a playground these days, there are the hundreds of native varietals and more and more they are being made into serious wines rather than the carafe of Vino Rosso that used to be their destination. Two medium-bodied examples are the Colle Ticchio Cesanese ($15.99) from the Lazio region, a perfect match for the hearty pasta dishes we’re eating in mid-winter, and the Vestini Campagnano “Kajanero” ($15.99), which is due an award for quality and for combining Pallagrello, Casavecchia, Pizzutella and Aglianico. Both of these wines have the classic Italian combination of food-wine weight, spice and acidity that enable them to cozy up to a range of dishes and hold your attention if the food is not equally detailed. One of the few, if only, bottlings of Charbono ($19.99) that you’ll ever see comes from Summers Estate in Calistoga. Summers has preserved this vineyard and makes a fruit-driven, subtly spicy red that is food-versatile and thoroughly enjoyable to sip on its own.

Those of you seeking reds with more structure can look into the Aglianico by Bisceglia ($14.99) or the Zweigelt by Beck ($15.99). These wines both offer more structure and a core of fruit but have smooth, polished tannins and the core is not dense, they are drinkable now and inexpensive to boot! The Bisceglia ($14.99) comes from the lower slopes of an extinct volcano and has a typical Aglianico minerality overlaid with fruit that is unobstructed by oak. The Beck Zweigelt ($15.99) is an affordable look at the high quality of Austria’s red wines. The Beck has the structure but not the density of a Cabernet, with brighter, more red-tone fruit and just a touch of blueberry that is reminiscent of Australian Shiraz without the jammy texture.

So if you’re looking for a change of pace, try these and then ask us to set some more aside. Or tell us what you liked about your new varietal and we’ll give you a couple more to try.

Matt S., Beltramo’s Wine Consultant

Australia

The Yalumba winery produces high quality from $10.00 to $100.00. The Y Series wines across the board are bargains worth your attention. I particularly liked the 2010 Cabernet ($10.99). Winsor Dobbin, Sauce Magazine – Tasmania (Aus) writes: “The Yalumba Y wines are a perfect option when cash is tight and you need a quality bottle of wine. The 2010 Cabernet is a dark purple color with blackcurrant, crushed flower and violet aromas, full-blooded fruit flavors with spice, oak and mocha notes. In short it’s a quality cabernet offering lots of bang for your buck.”

Pewsey Vale Winery continues to turn out some of the finest, juicy, mouthwatering dry Rieslings for value on the planet. The 2011 Eden Valley Riesling  ($14.99) is no exception. Produced from cool climate, high altitude vineyards, this Riesling sizzles with lime/citrus, hard candy and mineral aromas and flavors. Beautiful palate feel, mouth-coating and long.

France

I had the opportunity to taste through the new releases from Domaine Cazes last year in France. The wineries specialties are the delicious sweet wines from Rivesaltes, but they also make tasty table wines. Try the 2010 Le Canon du Marechal Blanc ($12.99). This was one of my favorite whites from my trip through southern France. An aromatic, delicate white blend of Muscat and Viognier made of Certified Bio-dynamic grapes.

Another find from southern France made exclusively from Viognier is Chateau de Pennautier’s  Viognier de Pennautier ($10.99). This winery dates back to 1620 and made their first wines in 1701. If you want to taste what Viognier is like without the influence of heavy-handed barrel spice, this wines for you. Pure, fragrant, floral, peach aromas and flavors. Never heavy or sweet. Clean and fresh. Compare to California Viognier at two to three times the price.

A miniscule 500 cases of the delicious 2010 Chateau Astruc Ste Eulalie Minervois ($10.99) is produced. An impressive blend of Syrah, Carignan, and Grenache, this wine is a knockout. Sophisticated aromas of violets, gentle smoke, spice and berries. Fleshy, impeccable balance. A top-notch alternative to more expensive Rhône wines.

2010 will be another very good to excellent year for the Rhône and Southern France as you can tell by my enthusiasm for the afore mentioned wines. Domaine Paul Autard’s Côtes du Rhône ($12.99) is good barometer of the quality produced from the region in 2010. Importer Russel Herman writes:”The Côtes du Rhône is made from 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah grapes just outside the Châteauneuf du Pape appellation in Courthezon. It’s a smoky, complex wine loaded with warm raspberry fruit, showing many of the best attributes of Châteauneuf du Pape. It is ready for current drinking… and represents one of the best values from southern France.”

Another tasty value from the Rhône in 2010 is the Les Vignerons d’Estezargues d’Andezon Côtes du Rhône ($10.99). Robert Parker The Wine Advocate rated this wine 91 points and says: “The classic cuvee, which has long been selected by importer Eric Solomon, is their 2010 Domaine d’Andezon, a blend of 90% Syrah and 10% Grenache. While there are critics of Syrah grown in the southern Rhone, even the cynics agree that the old-vine Syrah from the Gard has a special character to it. This wine comes from 40+-year-old Syrah vines and 60+-year-old Grenache vines, bottled unfined and unfiltered after being aged in both tank and concrete. Dense ruby/purple, with a stunning nose of blackberry liqueur and jus de viande (beef/meat juices), it’s thrilling, intensely pure, full-bodied mouthfeel, good freshness, and striking floral character all combine for one of the very best bargains in dry red wine that readers are likely to find anywhere in the world. This is super and should continue to drink well for another 3-4 years.”

Italy

I wrote about  Cleto Chiarli’s Lambrusco ($10.99) in an earlier article in November 2011. It’s worth noting again the merits of this delicious fizz, in this context as a value sparkling wine: “Obtained by a careful grape selection of the ancient “Grasparossa” vine cultivated on the hills surrounding Castelvetro village in the Modena province. Deep ruby red color with a pink froth. Fruity aroma and palate, typical of this varietal, which are very pleasant indeed. Thanks to a rational and slow fermentation the wine has a distinct softness and delicacy. It can be a wine for dessert as well as a wine for the typical dishes of the local cuisine.” Dalla Terra Importer 

Argiano hit it out of the park with the new release of the 2009 Non Confunditur ($15.99). “Non Confunditur” is the Latin term written on Argiano’s crest and was the motto of the former owners, the Lovatelli Gaetani d’Aragona family. A blend of Tuscan and French grapes, the 2009 might be the best vintage for this wine I’ve tasted. Clove/allspice, savoury aromas. Black fruit, spice flavors. Juicy acidity adds a nice punch to the wine.

Two wines I’d highly recommend from Vietti winery in Piemonte are the 2009 Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne ($15.99) and the 2007 Barolo Castiglione ($39.99). Vietti winery writes about the Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne: “Ruby purple color with ripe red cherry aromas with hints of mineral and vanilla. A dry, medium bodied red wine with refreshing acidity and soft tannins. Well balanced with good integration of oak, good complexity and a finish of red cherries.” You might say $40.00 for a bottle of wine a value?  But hold on. The Barolo Castiglione bottlings from Vietti can, in most vintages, represent the best value in Barolo. The 2007 again, might represent the best value in Barolo. This wine is flying off the shelf and will easily eclipse the phenomenal success of the 2004 vintage. Rated 93 points from Antonio Galloni at The Wine Advocate, he writes: “The 2007 Barolo Castiglione deftly balances the open, radiant personality of the vintage with considerable underlying structure. Warm, dense and full-bodied, the 2007 Barolo Castiglione flows effortlessly across the palate with generous fruit and fabulous overall balance. The wine was even better when I tasted it from bottle a few months later. It is another overachieving wine from Vietti and a bottle that is exceedingly fairly priced.”

Spain

Celler Pinol’s Ludivicus Tinto ($10.99) is a must buy. A blend of Garnacha, Syrah and Carinena from the Terra Alta district in the Tarragona province of northeastern Spain. Lovely, pure, fresh berry flavors that possess a hint of tension in the finish. Delicious.

The 2010 Bielsa ‘Viñas Viejas’ Garnacha ($10.99) is another stellar, value offering from  this producer from Campo de Borja. Easy to like, uncomplicated aromas of raspberry, cranberry and cherry kirsch. Fleshy, seamless texture.

Howard Padgett, Imported Wine Buyer

To understand the nature of these wines we must first look at the actual wines of the Rhône valley, upon which these California wines are based.   The Côtes du Rhône appellation is situated in the south-eastern corner of France and follows the river Rhône from the town of Avignon in the south to Vienne in the north.  This great wine region is split distinctly into two sub-regions, the Northern and Southern Rhône, both producing wines of great depth and character.

The Southern Rhône valley has a very distinctly Mediterranean climate with a terrain littered with herbal scrub, olive groves and vineyards filled with stony soils and rocky outcrops.  This area is also susceptible to the whims of ‘Le Mistral,’ an occasionally violent wind which continually makes its presence known.  The most notable aspect of the Southern Rhône valley is that there are a vast amount of grape varieties to choose from, with the majority of red wines being blends of at least three different varietals, predominantly Grenache, Syrah and Mouvedre, creating wines of great complexity with a pleasing warming herbaceous quality.

The Northern Rhône is in stark contrast to the south both in climate and in its wines.  Whilst retaining some of the Mediterranean influence, there is a distinctly continental climate feel creating warmer summers and colder winters, resulting in a region that has more in common with its neighbor to the north, Burgundy.  The Northern Rhône is also focused on creating wines of a single grape variety, specifically Syrah for the reds and Viognier the whites.  Syrah from this area produces great inky colored wines with notes of white pepper and subtle gamey tones, yet retaining the finesse so often associated with the great wines of Burgundy.

With some basic knowledge of the Rhône Valley and its wines, it becomes easier to understand and see parallels with many of the winegrowing regions of the West Coast.  For instance, the predominant areas with Rhône Valley varietals on the West Coast follow the Pacific Ocean from the town of Temecula in Southern California to Bellingham in Northern Washington.  The climate in Southern California is also much closer to that of the Mediterranean with a drier, more arid landscape with the Northern states of Oregon and Washington having a climate much more in common with the cooler regions of Burgundy and Bordeaux, with higher rainfall and colder winters.

The main difference between the Rhône Valley and the West Coast is that there are no clear dividing lines  for areas making single varietal wines (Syrah in the Northern Rhône) and areas making blended wines (Southern Rhône reds).  Instead, both of these styles of wine can be found in some form or another along the entire coastline from Southern California to Northern Washington. 

One of the pioneering areas of Southern Rhône style wines is the Paso Robles AVA (American Viticultural Area ) and surrounding wine regions of the South-Central Coast. The wine makers of this area coined the term ‘The Rhone Rangers’, which formed in the 1980’s and is now a non-profit organization to promote Rhône style wines.  Wine makers at the forefront of this movement include John Alban of Alban Wineries, Bob Lindquist of Qupe Cellars and Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon.  It was Grahm who formed the movement in 1983. 

I have recently tasted through some of the wines available from this area with excellent results. The Qupe Syrah ($13.99) from California’s Central Coast is an intensely inky wine with deep blueberry fruit, herbaceous undertones and notes of black pepper and spice, reminiscent of some of the few examples of single varietal Syrah in the Southern Rhône Valley.  Tasting wines from this area and not including one from Paso Robles would be reprehensible. Luckily, the Vina Robles ‘Red 4’ ($11.99) was on hand and certainly did not disappoint.  This wine, comprised of a blend of Petite Syrah, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, creates a wine with supple black fruit and a warming lingering finish.

Moving north through the central coast and into one of California’s most famous wine producing regions of Napa and Sonoma counties you will begin to find even more fine examples of Rhône Valley style wines.  One important factor to take into consideration here is that most of the wines which closely represent this style will be found in Sonoma County, particularly Sonoma Coast AVA.  The reason for this is the cool breezes and mystical fog rolling in from the Pacific Ocean which serves to cool the vines and create a wine closer in style to that of the Northern Rhône, with a certain subtlety of flavor and earthy complexity.  A fine example of a 100% Syrah wine from Sonoma Coast is the Bodega Rancho ‘Que Syrah Vineyard’ ($26.99), situated in the south western corner of this diverse AVA, where the evening fog lingers to keep the vineyards cool until the early morning and often through to mid-day.  This is the perfect wine to bridge the gap between old and new world styles with good brambly black fruit and rich texture yet retaining subtle spice and an underlying gamey quality.

The penultimate wine to mention for this comparison is from the northern reaches of California’s wine growing areas in Mendocino County (100 miles northwest of San Francisco).  The climate and topography of this area is very complex with both coastal and inland influences.  Also, there are many valley floor areas while some soar in elevation to the heights of our next wine: Aldrich Browne ‘Mariah Vineyard’ Syrah ($32.99).  The vines are perched precariously at 2,600 feet above sea level, leaving the resulting wine with a very complex and intense meaty, leathery tone and soft supple fruit, reminiscent of a fine Northern Rhone wine.

To finish off this tour of West Coast wines we will be looking at Washington State in the Pacific Northwest.  Contrary to the fact that Washington resides so far northward, the wines produced in this region tend to have a warmer climate feel to them than those of Oregon.  This is largely due to the majority of Washington wines being produced on the Eastern side of the Cascades Mountains, protecting the vines from the rain and cooler weather found on the Western side where Oregon wines are produced.  Given the geography of this region it is of no surprise that Washington Rhône style wines have a distinctly Southern Rhône Valley feel to them with blended varietals and a warming herbaceous edge.  This is in evidence when tasting Doyenne ‘Metier’ ($38.99), a red blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre which encompasses all the character of a great Châteauneuf Du Pape with excellent weight and texture, aromas of lavender and bramble fruits with a deliciously long finish.

With such a vast array of wine styles spread along the entirety of the Pacific Coastline, what better way to compliment this year’s Christmas feast than with one of our great West Coast Rhône Valley style wines. 

Happy tasting…

Christian B., Beltramo’s Wine Consultant

I was also able to get a sneak peak at some of the wines that won’t hit the marketplace until next spring as well as grill numerous winemakers on the state of this year’s harvest.  On that last note, the synopsis is that yields will be way down while quality will be dependent on the ability of vineyard managers to mitigate rain induced mold issues and foster the grapes to ripeness in a growing season that has been quite cool.

Here are a few highlights from the tasting that can currently be found on our shelves or purchased though our website:

2008 Kazmer & Blaise “Boon Fly’s Hill” Carneros Chardonnay – $44.99

Sourced from a small knoll within the Poseidon’s Vineyard in Carneros, this wine is age entirely in tight grained Hungarian oak barrels for 21 months.  It is a beautifully detailed Chardonnay with aromas of white flowers, blanched almond, apple tart and spice.  The mouth feel is structured and precise with vivid green apple flavors, a splash of minerality, great acidity and a subtle toasty nuance that lingers through the finish.  Only 197 cases were produced.

2010 Luli “Santa Lucia Highlands” Chardonnay – $17.99

My favorite thing about this wine lies in the wine making.    Here we have a wine that is vinified in 50% stainless steel, 50% neutral oak and untouched by malolactic fermentation.  This allows the essence of the grape to shine without the accoutrements of the winemaker’s hand.  The aromatics reveal a lovely tropical fruit note along with flavors of white peach and caramelized apple.  There is plenty of textural concentration as well as a vibrant acidity which helps to make this wine an agile food paring candidate.

2009 Freeman “Sonoma Coast” Pinot Noir – $39.99

With winemaker (and Beltramo’s alum) Ed Kurtzman in the cellar, this winery has been quietly turning out delicious wines for almost a decade.  Their most recent release of Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir showcases all the character of the 2009 vintage for this area.  It is a wine with bright acidity, tightly wound structure and beautiful depth of fruit.  The aromatics are a lively mix of pomegranate, sweet spices and rosewood.  The expression on the palate is a bit more reticent but the long finish reveals layers of subtlety indicative of future gratification.

2009 Roar “Rosella’s Vineyard” Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir – $49.99

Roar winery owner Gary Francioni is also the owner of the fabulous Rosella’s vineyard located in central portion of the Sana Lucia Highlands.  Coincidentally, this is another wine showcasing Ed Kurtzman’s deft hand with Pinot Noir, although in a very different style.  Effusive aromas of dark cherry, spice and savory herbs are backed up by a lush and seamless mouth feel.  It is certainly a more robust style of Pinot, but solid acidity means the wine never falls out of balance or becomes cumbersome on the palate.

Mike Janeway – Domestic Wine Buyer

Before tasting the wines, our special guest, Valentina Cirasola, gave a great presentation on the “The ItalianTable and Dining Etiquette.” Throughout the event Augustine and Angela Buonocore of La Biscotteria in Redwood City provided authentic and delicious focaccia, biscotti, and grissini to accompany our wines. Lastly, they treated us with delicious cannoli, to enjoy as a conclusion to our tasting.

The tasting itself was terrific, featuring selected Italian wines from lesser known regions and/or varietals. The theme, “Italian Wines, The Roads Less Traveled,” showcased our imported wines buyer, Howard Padgett’s, efforts in expanding our unique selection.

We started with the beautiful and very classy NV Monte Rossa Saten ($34.99) sparkling wine from Franciacorta in Lombardia, a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco fermented in bottle. Then followed the 2009 100% Petite Arvine white wine by Les Cretes. The texture is rich, but not heavy, floral nose, citrus and passion fruit with an obvious minerality. The Petite Arvine wines are terrific if you want something on the exotic side. We recommend the excellent 2009 Swiss bottling from Cave du Vieux-Moulin ($32.99) which we currently have in stock.

We tasted the 2010 “Praepositus” Kerner ($27.99) by Abbazia di Novacella from the Isarco Valley in the far northern region of the Alto Adige. Kerner, a cross-bred grape of Riesling and the red Schiava, purportedly gets its name from the name of a German writer of drinking songs. The Riesling influence is obvious with a subtle pear like character as well as minerality followed by fresh clean acidity.

The first red of the evening was a 2009 Pelaverga “Basadone” from Castello de Verduno ($21.99) in Piemonte. A lighter bodied wine, it reminded me of a cross between Nebbiolo and Bourgogne Rouge in weight and texture and had spicy overtones. The superb 2006 Tuscan red, Villa di Capezzana’s Carmignano ($25.99), located just west of Florence is a blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.  This wine showed good density, elegance, sweet red fruit, and a very persistent finish.

We had the opportunity to taste a grape that most people have never heard of, the 2006 Tazzelenghe, produced by Conte d’Attimis-Maniago ($32.99) in the Colli Orientali del Friuli. This was a fairly hearty and robust wine of dark red fruit and bright acidity. It is definitely a good wine for grilled or roasted meats and game. Then we tasted a Nebbiolo, but with a twist. This was the 2007 Sforzato di Valtellina “Albareda” ($54.99) by Mamete Prevostini, a wine made by drying the grapes (about 30 days) before fermentation. It was one of the overall favorites with beautiful dried floral and red fruit character. The last red, 2004 Montefalco Sagrantino by Terre de Trinci ($49.99), definitely made a bold statement. From the region of Umbria, the aromas and flavors were broad and complex, ranging from black fruit, slight vanilla and spices.

Then came the finale, and what a finale it was! We tasted the fabulous Sicilian 2007 L’Ecru Passito by Firriato ($34.99), a dessert wine which is a blend of Zibibbo and Malvasia. It showed scents of honey, orange peel and dried figs with a texture that really glides. It really is a fascinating exotic wine, and I highly recommend this for the upcoming holidays, or just anytime.

Gary M.,  Beltramo’s Wine Consultant

I was fortunate to recruit a couple other members of the Beltramo’s team to join me on this endeavor.  Not only for their expert palates but also for some company on the almost four hour drive to Hirsch.  The vineyard and winery are perched at 1500 feet in the Sonoma Coast appellation near the tiny town of Cazadero and a mere three miles from the Pacific Ocean.  The roads leading there are narrow, twisty and unkempt.  The final mile is dirt.

Upon arrival David led us on a tour of the vineyard where he spoke about the history of the site, the geology of the land and the challenges of farming in such marginal conditions.  Next we adjourned to the cellar where we analyzed young wines from twenty or so different barrels.  These would be the ingredients for our final blend.  As we would learn, all vineyard blocks on the property (there are over 60) are vinified separately and aged in oak casks of varying age.  This allowed us to consider differences in clonal material, vine age, soil type, and oak influence in our blending decisions.   After reviewing our tasting notes we assembled a blend that we felt would represent our goal of producing a wine with balance, depth, complex aromatics, and near term accessibility as well as sufficient structure for at least ten years of cellaring.   The result of that first pilgrimage to the Hirsch Estate was 25 cases of our inaugural 2007 Beltramo’s ‘Hirsch Vineyard’ Pinot Noir.   The wine turned out exactly as we had hoped and was popular with customers.  I tasted one of those bottles recently and I’m happy to report that it is still in fabulous balance with some of the secondary aromas and flavors beginning to emerge and plenty of life remaining.

Today we are proud to offer our third custom blend Pinot Noir from Hirsch Vineyard.  The 2009 Hirsch Beltramo’s B Cuvee Pinot Noir is a wonderfully feminine wine with great tension on the palate, fully developed flavors and an alcohol level at a very moderate 13.2%.  Defined by high toned aromas of cherry, cranberry and raspberry on the nose, the wine also reveals a distinct note of green tea with a more subtle nuance of morel mushroom lingering in the background.  On the palate, a mélange of red fruit flavors are lifted by bright acidity and framed by silky tannin.  We feel that this elegant wine offers excellent food pairing versatility in the near term and at least a decade of cellaring potential for those with patience.  At $34.99 this wine is a serious bargain, and with only 50 cases produced, I’m hoping that it will last until our 2010 is ready to go.

–Mike Janeway , Domestic Wine Buyer

I was surprised at the similarities of my tasting notes five years apart. Scribbled in my wire-bound Memo notebook regarding the 2004 As Sortes, I had written “Piercing mineral aromas, gentle perfume, transparent (Chablis)?  Chiseled texture. Long, classy.” The first vintage I tasted of La Conreria d’Scala Dei Les Brugueres Priorat Blanco was 2005. I wrote: “Wicked aromas, fresh, fragrant, fruity, citrus. Tremendous length, energy. A remarkable, single-varietal white wine (Grenache Blanc).” You could easily transpose those notes from those two prior vintages onto the current vintages, and they would be fairly accurate.

Consistently one of the finest Albarinos produced in Spain is Pazo Señorans from a beautiful, family-owned estate with incredible history. Jay Miller of the Wine Advocate writes: “The 2010 Albarino (93 points) was aged in small stainless steel vats sur lie with batonnage for 4 months. Jasmine, mineral, lemon zest, and other citrus notes inform the nose of this multi-dimensional, already complex white. On the palate tropical flavors emerge adding to the wine’s pleasure quotient. Drink this superb effort over the next 3-4 years. As usual, Pazo de Señorans has made one of the finest Albarinos of the vintage.”

The 2008 vintage was challenging in most of the ways that the weather in Burgundy presents; a little too cool, a little too moist, some hail here & there, not enough sunshine. There was a need for constant vigilance and work in the vineyards to ward off myriad issues, and in early August there was real concern about the quality of the fruit. Then the sun came out, the wind picked up and in short time the vintage was saved, and some marvelous wines began to take shape. The 2009 vintage was easy by comparison – a timely and uneventful start, spurts of rain when needed, ample sunshine but not excessive heat and a lack of drama all the way through harvest. Most vignerons talk of 2009 as a relatively easy vintage, good sugar levels came naturally and the sorting work was not even strenuous. These contrasting weather patterns led to grapes and wines that are an intriguing contrast, the classic coiled mix of pleasant and potential in the 2008s and the sensuous textures not quite hiding the vineyards’ terroir in the 2009s.

To get a taste of that coiled intensity along with a definite dose of pleasure inherent in a 2008, try either of the Michel Niellon bottlings we have – the Chassagne Montrachet A.C. ($44.99)or Chassagne “Clos Saint Jean”($69.99). Both of these are white Burgundies in the classic style, offering a mineral tone bestowed by limestone and a balancing act between fruit and acid bestowed by Mother Nature. Along the same line we still have three wines to offer from Philippe Colin, his Chassagne A.C. ($39.99), Chassagne Les Chenevottes ($59.99) and Chassagne Les Vergers ($59.99). The vineyard bottlings offer more than the usual step up from the village in complexity, detail and length. They are wines that provide marvelous flexibility; they are far more than accessible now but as you linger over the last third of the bottle you get a clearer sense of what awaits down the road. For those who want to kick it a notch higher, we can still offer the Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagnes from Bonneau du Martray ($114.99) and Bouchard ($129.99). Both of these beauties tried to squeeze into the mould of 2008 but broke through with a richness of fruit that leaves one dazzled and pondering whether a Grand Cru from a vintage such as ‘08 should be so delicious at this stage.

The red Burgundies from 2008 are destined to forever live in the shadow of their big-brother ‘09s and are only recently beginning to show the true measure of their charm. They are also classically styled wines, with complex but comparatively reserved aromatics that are always indicative of their source and a sense of elegant restraint that the more flamboyant ‘09s cannot and do not have. The best examples of this we have remaining are Voillot’s Volnay Fremiets ($59.99), Serafin’s Gevrey Chambertin ($27.99) and Grivot’s Nuits St Georges  Ronciere ($89.99). These three will all tell you where they come from and that you will be very amply rewarded for your patience with them, via either decanter or cellar. Or ideally both. It would be a great disservice to write about 2008 red Burgundies without mentioning the wines of Robert Chevillon, which are among the best wines we’ve tasted this year. Buy them and taste everything you are looking for in a red Burgundy.  It’s really that simple and we’re fortunate to be able to offer six different vineyards: Bousselots ($74.99), Chaignots ($74.99), Pruliers ($74.99), Roncieres ($74.99), Cailles (89.99) and Vaucrains (89.99).

The white Burgundies of 2009 share some of the same fate as the red 2008s, they trail a great vintage for whites and are almost an afterthought in discussing 2009. This is truly unfortunate, since there were excellent wines made from the generous material of 2009, wines with a rich but not unfocused character that offer a Burgundian soul underneath the inherent flesh. From just north and south of the Cote d’Or come Seguinot Bordet’s Chablis Vaillons ($21.99) and Lassarat’s Macon-Vergisson La Roche ($21.99). Both of these wines offer a clear indication of where they come from: the Chablis has beautiful chalkiness and a hint of salinity, and the Macon-Vergisson a complexity and length that belie the age of the vineyards. Both also bear the stamp of 2009, an exuberant richness that flows from nose to tail and make them a pleasure to drink … now! If you’re wanting wines that are more of the traditional Burgundian balancing act, even in ‘09, buy some Fichet wines while we still have them. The Meursault A.C. ($49.99) and Les Gruyaches ($69.99) offer the flesh of ‘09 within an ‘08 structure, everything in its place and a place for everything without feeling constrained or limited and with ample ageing potential.

The red Burgundies from 2009 really do not need further praise, which is not to say that what they’ve received is undeserved – nothing further from the truth but perhaps enough is enough. Some Burgundy fans will say that the ‘09s offer too much pleasure, too much ripeness and flesh, that they are too close akin to California’s Pinot Noirs. They certainly are closer to the California model than most years but even with the rich aromatics, plush textures and softer finishes on most 2009s they are still Burgundy, possessing a sense of place visible under the deliciousness. To be your own judge, try one of the great values we have on hand, Voillot’s Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes ($24.99). Then try any or all of these three: Pavelot Savigny-les-Beaune Dominode ($54.99), Muzard Santenay Clos des Mouches ($39.99) and Gros Frere Clos Vougeot Musigni ($135.00). If you don’t agree that these have the mark of ‘09 but also of Burgundy, let’s talk about it … and decide what test to open next.

Matt S.,  Beltramo’s Assistant Manager