2010 Du Cropio “Dom Giuva,” Ciro Rosso Classico Superiore, Calabria  -  $24.99

This intriguing red wine takes its name from the D.O.C. region of Ciro, and the town Ciro Marina literally sits on the coast of the Ionian Sea.  When the Greeks brought various grapes to southern Italy it was Gaglioppo that found its home in Calabria and is still the dominant grape there.  Interesting though, Gaglioppo may actually have descended from Sangiovese according to recent DNA tests, so there is a bit of controversy as to its Greek origins. Never the less, Giuseppe Ippolito, the proprietor of the Du Cropio estate has taken Gaglioppo wines to superb levels of quality. The vines sit on steep hillsides just inland from the ocean catching the stiff cooling breezes which help protect the grapes from the intense, sometimes torrid, summer heat.  The soil is poor, generally a mix of clay and limestone and, due to the steep slopes, the drainage is quite good. All these conditions contribute to producing small crops of highly concentrated fruit, the best of which is used for the wines labeled “Du Cropio.” This is not a simple wine and I suggest decanting for one or two hours to let the wine open up. The flavors are complex mix of crushed berries, licorice and minerals.   I definitely recommend this wine with grilled lamb or steak, lasagna, sausages and grilled vegetables with olive oil.

2011 Masseria Li Veli, Verdeca, Valle d’Itria, Puglia  -  $17.99

In 1999, the Falvo family,  of Avigonesi  fame in Tuscany, purchased and renovated an old property in Puglia, called Masseria Li Veli, located on the Salento plain.  In 2009, they began a project called ASKOS, the idea being to use ancient varietals for making new wines incorporating modern high standards of viticulture and winemaking.  The word, Askos, refers to a typical Greek earthenware jar for wine and olive oil and many are still found in the Salento region. You will see a photograph of one on the label for their 2011 bottling of the white grape named Verdeca, which I must say is a superb wine and highly suggest you don’t miss. This Verdeca is grown in the Valle D’Itria where the mineral and calcareous soil combined with a cool and windy microclimate have proven ideal for this unique grape.  The wine itself emanates exotic floral, citrus and tropical fruit with a plush texture and clean finish.  Have this with seafood, especially grilled with olive oil, roasted chicken with lemon or herbs, and certainly the oh so obvious of all, a Greek salad!

Gary M., Beltramo’s Wine Consultant

Le Chiuse has just released their 2010 Rosso di Montalcino ($27.99), and it’s dynamite. The wine-making process is the same as the Brunello but without the need of ageing. Made from 60-70 year old vines, the wine has lovely aromas of clove, allspice, mint and Red/Black fruits. The flavors are fresh, ripe and juicy with a hint of savory bouillon notes. Nice punch/intensity.

Howard Padgett, Imported Wine buyer

Grapes, even or particularly the same grape varietal, grown in different places will produce wines that taste different from each other. I have yet to meet someone who, upon tasting a wine, says “mmm, it tastes like squished grapes” but I’ve tasted with many who say “hmm, definitely Old World, more Meursault than Chassagne.” Grapes can reflect where they’re grown far more distinctly than any fruit: a peach will taste like a peach wherever it will achieve ripeness, but Chardonnay grapes grown in Meursault will taste different than the ones grown and squished in Chassagne Montrachet. Or Russian River Valley, or Arroyo Grande, or Margaret River, or Casablanca Valley.

The United States is making progress in this area with AVAs that are smaller and more wineries being more specific about vineyards but the process here is really just starting. Italy and France are two of the oldest wine-growing regions in the world and relatively long ago codified the production and labeling of wine and based both things on where the grapes were grown. And after much planning and some effort, so do our shelves. So please stop by and peruse our Italian and French wines arranged, as they should be, according to the geography of those two countries. In looking through some of our French selections, as you walk up the aisle from the Côtes du Rhône in one corner to the Chablis at the end of the section, you’re figuratively taking a stroll through the vineyards of eastern France. In Italy, you’ll go from the islands of Sardinia & Sicily and walk all the way north to the Alto Adige.

Winding your way to and up Italy, I would suggest stopping to taste some squished grapes at the following points (general region included as an aid for both of us):

Sardegna – 2009 Argiolas Isola dei Nuraghi “Perderas” – $12.99

Puglia – 2011 Masseria Li Veli Valle d’Itria “Verdeca” – $17.99

Puglia – 2011 Monaci Rosato Salento “Kreos” – $12.99

Marche – 2011 Collestefano Verdicchio di Metalica – $14.99

Tuscany – 2006 Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino “Pertimali” – $59.99

Tuscany – 2006 Ciacci Piccolomini Brunello di Montalcino “Pianrosso” – $54.99

Tuscany – 2007 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino – $64.99

Tuscany – 2007 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino “Altero” – $79.99

Piemonte – 2009 Einaudi Dolcetto di Dogliani – $14.99

Piemonte – 2007 Sottimano Barbaresco “Curra” – $59.99

Piemonte – 2004 Damilano Barolo “Cannubi” – $79.99

Venezia Giulia – 2010 Jermann Ribolla Gialla “Vinnae” – $19.99

Alto Adige – 2010 Elena Walch Lagrein – $14.99

From there, it’s a few steps to start a trip through France (these ‘regions’ are more specific, for help check out the maps at the top of our shelves or ask us):

2010 Le Colombier Vacqueyras “Vieilles Vignes” – $19.99

2010 Le Colombier Vacqueyras “Cuvee G” – $21.99

2009 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape – $64.99

2010 Pierre Usseglio Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvee de mon Aieul” – $99.99

2009 Clape Cornas – $129.99

2009 Allemand Cornas “Reynard” – $99.99

2009 Allemand Cornas “Chaillot” – $84.99

2009 Ferret Pouilly-Fuisse – $29.99

2009 Michel Juillot Mercurey “Les Vignes de Maillonge” – $27.99

2010 Jean-Baptiste Ponsot Rully “Montpalais” – $21.99

2010 Seguinot-Bordet Chablis – $19.99

2010 Malandes Chablis “Vaudesir” - $49.99

2010 Fevre Chablis “Les CLos” – $89.99

This last trio of Chardonnay-based wines are a delicious example of how much dirt matters and how there can be a quality-based scale for wines produced from the same general area. They are, in order, a “village” wine from the AOC of Chablis, a Premier Cru and a Grand Cru. These gradations are based on hundreds of years of grapes being grown in the dirt involved, with some relatively minor influences from the weather and producers. A discussion of those nitty-gritty differences in dirt has more to do with geology, and therefore deserving of its own post but start here with the geography and see if one level wants to make you climb to the next. Unless of course you’d prefer to start at the top!

Matt S., Beltramo’s Wine Consultant

The winery is located in the Valtellina region, located at the base of the pre-Alps on Italy’s border with Switzerland. Steep, nearly vertical vineyards make for an extremely challenging terroir to work with to say the least.

The 2008 ‘Quadrio’ Valtellina Superiore ($19.99) is a ‘must buy’ for connoisseurs and neophytes alike. Hints of smoke, floral and digestivo notes in the aromas. The palate has spot on Nebbiolo flavors of dried fruits and flowers. The small addition of Merlot certainly adds an attractive textural component to this overachiever. For a few dollars more, the 2008 ‘Inferno’ bottling ($24.99) made from 100% Chiavennasca (Nebbiolo) is worth you attention as well. A ‘wow’ wine for Its  classic rose petal ,tar and cola like spice aromas and flavors. Refined with almost seamless tannins.

Howard Padgett, Imported Wine Buyer

To understand how this all fits together we need to go back to 1963 when the DOC, or Denominazione di Origine Controllata, was established.  This classification elevated wines to a higher standard of quality as well as status over a Vino da Tavola, requiring more stringent adherence to traditional varieties and methods of production within a specific region.  And even more so,  the DOCG, or Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita,  classification was established to “guarantee” the proper grapes, region, stringent rules, generally lower yields, plus a requirement to submit wines for tasting analysis.  This, of course, was all well and good for the reputation of the wine as well as a supposedly higher quality product for the consumer.  But what if you were a wine producer, let’s say in the region of Tuscany, and you believed you could make a very fine wine that could even compete at a very high level on the international stage.  Well, fine, but it could only be classified as a simple table wine, or Vino da Tavola, if you are producing something other than what the DOC or DOCG rules allowed.

The most famous example of this situation is the Chianti producer, Piero Antinori, who back in the 1970′s, wanted to produce a wine that was a blend of Sangiovese and  Cabernet Sauvignon, a combination that could not be a Chianti under DOC laws.  He called the wine Tignanello, and it became one of the most internationally known and sought after wines from Tuscany.  Soon after, other producers in Tuscany followed a similar path and the wines began to be referred to as “Super Tuscans,” even though they were still officially classified as Vino da Tavola.  So, the question remained, should there not be some way of legally classifying these types of wines and confer upon them a more legitimate status, especially since many would most likely be exported.

Finally, in 1992 there were a number of newly instigated wine laws that were created along with the classification, IGT .  The Indicazione Geografica Tipica called for wines, either red or white, to represent more specific regions and presumably higher quality.  It was basically an ”upgraded”  Vino da Tavola classification and in many cases, such as the “Super Tuscans,” the quality could be superb.  However, both small and large scale production of generic and, in some cases, very mediocre wines were allowed to enjoy the IGT status and that is still true today.  So, just keep in mind that the IGT on the label does not necessarily translate to a high quality wine, and that’s why at Beltramo’s  we taste and bring in the wines that are of top quality in their category.   

Here are twelve I highly recommend from Tuscany, where it all began.  These red wines are made from Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah in some form or another.  And, although you don’t hear the name “Super Tuscan” used that much anymore, you could definitely say these are “Super Wines from Tuscany!”

2009 Argiano Non Confunditur Rosso – $15.99 

2008 Querciabella Mongrana Maremma – $18.99 

2009 Tenuta dell’ Ornellaia Le Volte - $21.99 

2008 La Massa – $22.99 

2007 Cerbaiona Toscana IGT – $44.99 

2008 Orma Toscana – $59.99 

2008 Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione – $59.99 

2007 Vignamaggio Cabernet Franc – $64.99 

2009 Tenuta Sette Ponti Oreno - $$69.99 

2008 Antinori Tignanello – $84.99 

2007 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve – $109.99 

2008 Montepeloso Nardo – $119.99 

Gary Mulleneaux, Beltramo’s Wine Consultant

Sicily produces an astonishing variety of wines ranging from crisp aromatic whites, light and fruity reds, deep rich reds loaded with dark chocolate and spice, all the way through to luscious sweet wines and Marsala packed full off candied fruit peel and toasty almond richness.  The island is separated into various DOC zones planted to a phenomenal range of indigenous varietals, usually planted in specific areas to make best use of the soil types, high elevations, sun exposure, and volcanic soils courtesy of the ever present Mount Etna.

If you ever find yourself stopping off for lunch after a casual stroll around the western side of the island, it would not be complete without sampling a nicely chilled glass of Donnafugata ‘Anthilia’ 2010 ($12.99). A blend of Ansonica and Catarratto, this is an elegant wine with hints of white peach and a crisp yet lingering finish. 

After enjoying some of the delicious white wines, the reds really begin to pick up the pace, and with so many different varieties and styles available there is something for everyone.  For the Pinot Noir lovers out there, getting hold of a bottle of Antica Tenuta Del Nanfro Frappato 2009 ($18.99) is an absolute must.  Made with 100% Frappato, this is a light and delicate wine packed full of bright berry fruits with a subtle hint of spice, finishing with very gentle tannins.  This would make a perfect accompaniment to antipasti and dishes on the lighter side.  Considering Sicily is one of the world’s largest olive producers it would be a crime not to include a few alongside this wine.  On the heavier end of the spectrum lies the Nero D’avola grape, a classic Sicilian varietal expressed beautifully in the Firriato ‘Harmonium’ 2007 ($35.99), a richly textured wine with great persistence on the palate, balanced with intense barrel spice and floral high notes.

If you are looking for something with a hint of adventure, the eastern edge of the island is home to the Etna DOC with may of its vineyards covering the slopes of Mount Etna – the largest active volcano in Europe.  This DOC produces wines that are very different in style to other parts of Sicily, owing to its very particular soil types and high elevation, producing wines closer in style to those of Burgundy or Barolo.  An excellent example is the Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso Santo Spirito 2009 ($49.99).  Etna Rosso wines are composed of a minimum of 80% Nerello Mascalese with the remaining being made up of a varietal called Cappuccio.

Sicily also has a great reputation for its sweet wines and Marsala, perfect for finishing off a meal in style.  Some of the greatest sweet wines actually come from an island called Pantelleria, located in the strait of Sicily, approximately 50 miles off teh coast of Tunisia.  A fine example is the D’ancona ‘Cimillya’ Passito di Pantelleria 2005 ($49.99) made from the Zibbibo member of the Moscato family. A Passito wine is typically of higher quality than a basic Moscato; the grapes are dried or ‘raisined’ creating a higher alcohol and sugar content which leads to a rich, luscious and decadently sweet experience.

If this Passito is not enough for you, try one of Sicily’s fortified Marsalas, a cask-aged, sweet, rich wine with toasted nutty aromas.  The Marco de Bartoli “Vigna la Miccia” ($39.99) is an excellent example of this style and will end a meal perfectly with the flavors lingering on the palate well into the evening.

After enjoying some of the amazing variety of wines on offer from this beautiful Mediterranean Island, you may find yourself sharing, as I do, the philosophy of the great Don Corleone himself:

     Don Corleone: “I like to drink wine more than I used to. Anyway, I’m drinking more.”

     Michael Corleone: “It’s good for ya’ pop.”

Christian B., Beltramo’s Wine Consultant

I have highlighted some of my personal favorites which showcase the diversity of the Sauvignon Blanc.  Please, join me on our international journey, and if you have any questions call me or stop by…

2010 Heritance, Napa Valley  ($16.99)  91 Points Wine Enthusiast: “Made without oak, this is a beautiful, stylish and elegant young wine to drink now. Blended with some Sémillon for buttery fat, it highlights lime, green grass, white peach and white pepper flavors, brightened with brisk acidity. Achieves an unusual level of control and complexity, especially at this price.”

2010 Benziger, Sonoma County ($11.99)  Bright citrus and floral aromas, followed by subtle notes of grapefruit, melon and lemon. The acidity has been softened by a touch of barrel aging, giving the wine a delicacy not often associated with Californian wines.

2009 Seresin, New Zealand ($14.99)   “91 points.  Bright yellow. Subdued, pure aromas of nectarine, spices, minerals, licorice and honey. Broad, concentrated, ripe and dry, with a tactile dusty texture to the pineappley fruit. Finishes chewy, savory and very persistent, with uncompromising dryness. Serious stuff.”   Stephen Tanzer, Wine Access, September 2011

2010 Le Claux Delorme, Loire Valley France ($12.99)   From the Valencay region, mid-way along the river comes a classy and classic example of a Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc.  Lemon and limes with delicate nuances of flint and mineral tones on the nose and the palate matches this in combination with touches of apricot and peach.

2010 Francis Blanchet Pouilly-Fume Cuvee Silice  ($21.99)  This wine also heralds from the Loire Region, but originates in Pouilly-Fume closer to the famed area of Sancere but on the opposite bank of the river. The wine is juicy, thirst quenching, with aromas of gun smoke, wet stone and delicate white flowers. Great tone and lift on the palate, lots of citrus with a hint of white pepper.

2010 Venica Ronco delle Mele, Fruili Italy ($34.99)   This wine originates from Friuli in Northeastern Italy. The nose is very expressive, exotic flowers and a hint of pear.  A soft texture on the palate with hints of apricot, peach and citrus rinds. Very complex for a Sauvignon Blanc: my personal favorite.

James D-B., Beltramo’s Wine Consultant

So if you’re looking to take a break from the usual and try something different, these are happy days. Of course, trying something different should be enjoyable and need not be that far removed from the wines you know. If you can’t figure out which varietal a wine is made from, or can and have no idea what it might taste like, ask us and we can make a comparison. We can give you an idea of what to expect and set you up with something new and interesting.

If your usual is a dry white, try the Berroia Txakolina ($17.99)which is 90% Hondarrabi Zuri and a delicious example of the primary white wine of the Basque region of Spain. Light-bodied and crisp, it has a refreshing character accented by just enough spritz to tickle your tongue. From the Monterey area, try the Cambiata Albariño ($17.99), a varietal originally from further west in Spain and into Portugal that enjoys being planted in California as well. Still light-bodied but with a bit more texture than the Txakolina and dry but not as crisp on the finish, it has established a fan base with us that will readily admit new members.  

For whites that are fragrant but not heavy, enjoy the aforementioned Irsai Oliver ($10.99) from Matyas Szoke in Hungary. It is delightfully fragrant, the parent grapes are Gewurztraminer and Muskat after all, and there is texture as well as weight with a lingering finish. A little less fragrant but possessing textbook old-vine texture and depth is the Albert Mann Auxerrois ($17.99), an organic wine from Alsace. Domaine Albert Mann was recently selected Winemakers of the Year by the Revue du Vin de France and this bottling is one of very, very few that I’ve seen of this cross between Gouais Blanc and Pinot Noir. Another stunning old-vine white is the Scala Dei “Les Brugueres” ($29.99) from the Priorat region near Barcelona. This is made from very old Grenache Blanc vines grown on steep “soil” that is a delight and education to sit down with and follow as it evolves in the glass. For a wine with such texture to have its intrigue outweigh its unctuous is remarkable and worth much more than the price of admission.

For red drinkers Italy is a playground these days, there are the hundreds of native varietals and more and more they are being made into serious wines rather than the carafe of Vino Rosso that used to be their destination. Two medium-bodied examples are the Colle Ticchio Cesanese ($15.99) from the Lazio region, a perfect match for the hearty pasta dishes we’re eating in mid-winter, and the Vestini Campagnano “Kajanero” ($15.99), which is due an award for quality and for combining Pallagrello, Casavecchia, Pizzutella and Aglianico. Both of these wines have the classic Italian combination of food-wine weight, spice and acidity that enable them to cozy up to a range of dishes and hold your attention if the food is not equally detailed. One of the few, if only, bottlings of Charbono ($19.99) that you’ll ever see comes from Summers Estate in Calistoga. Summers has preserved this vineyard and makes a fruit-driven, subtly spicy red that is food-versatile and thoroughly enjoyable to sip on its own.

Those of you seeking reds with more structure can look into the Aglianico by Bisceglia ($14.99) or the Zweigelt by Beck ($15.99). These wines both offer more structure and a core of fruit but have smooth, polished tannins and the core is not dense, they are drinkable now and inexpensive to boot! The Bisceglia ($14.99) comes from the lower slopes of an extinct volcano and has a typical Aglianico minerality overlaid with fruit that is unobstructed by oak. The Beck Zweigelt ($15.99) is an affordable look at the high quality of Austria’s red wines. The Beck has the structure but not the density of a Cabernet, with brighter, more red-tone fruit and just a touch of blueberry that is reminiscent of Australian Shiraz without the jammy texture.

So if you’re looking for a change of pace, try these and then ask us to set some more aside. Or tell us what you liked about your new varietal and we’ll give you a couple more to try.

Matt S., Beltramo’s Wine Consultant

Australia

The Yalumba winery produces high quality from $10.00 to $100.00. The Y Series wines across the board are bargains worth your attention. I particularly liked the 2010 Cabernet ($10.99). Winsor Dobbin, Sauce Magazine – Tasmania (Aus) writes: “The Yalumba Y wines are a perfect option when cash is tight and you need a quality bottle of wine. The 2010 Cabernet is a dark purple color with blackcurrant, crushed flower and violet aromas, full-blooded fruit flavors with spice, oak and mocha notes. In short it’s a quality cabernet offering lots of bang for your buck.”

Pewsey Vale Winery continues to turn out some of the finest, juicy, mouthwatering dry Rieslings for value on the planet. The 2011 Eden Valley Riesling  ($14.99) is no exception. Produced from cool climate, high altitude vineyards, this Riesling sizzles with lime/citrus, hard candy and mineral aromas and flavors. Beautiful palate feel, mouth-coating and long.

France

I had the opportunity to taste through the new releases from Domaine Cazes last year in France. The wineries specialties are the delicious sweet wines from Rivesaltes, but they also make tasty table wines. Try the 2010 Le Canon du Marechal Blanc ($12.99). This was one of my favorite whites from my trip through southern France. An aromatic, delicate white blend of Muscat and Viognier made of Certified Bio-dynamic grapes.

Another find from southern France made exclusively from Viognier is Chateau de Pennautier’s  Viognier de Pennautier ($10.99). This winery dates back to 1620 and made their first wines in 1701. If you want to taste what Viognier is like without the influence of heavy-handed barrel spice, this wines for you. Pure, fragrant, floral, peach aromas and flavors. Never heavy or sweet. Clean and fresh. Compare to California Viognier at two to three times the price.

A miniscule 500 cases of the delicious 2010 Chateau Astruc Ste Eulalie Minervois ($10.99) is produced. An impressive blend of Syrah, Carignan, and Grenache, this wine is a knockout. Sophisticated aromas of violets, gentle smoke, spice and berries. Fleshy, impeccable balance. A top-notch alternative to more expensive Rhône wines.

2010 will be another very good to excellent year for the Rhône and Southern France as you can tell by my enthusiasm for the afore mentioned wines. Domaine Paul Autard’s Côtes du Rhône ($12.99) is good barometer of the quality produced from the region in 2010. Importer Russel Herman writes:”The Côtes du Rhône is made from 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah grapes just outside the Châteauneuf du Pape appellation in Courthezon. It’s a smoky, complex wine loaded with warm raspberry fruit, showing many of the best attributes of Châteauneuf du Pape. It is ready for current drinking… and represents one of the best values from southern France.”

Another tasty value from the Rhône in 2010 is the Les Vignerons d’Estezargues d’Andezon Côtes du Rhône ($10.99). Robert Parker The Wine Advocate rated this wine 91 points and says: “The classic cuvee, which has long been selected by importer Eric Solomon, is their 2010 Domaine d’Andezon, a blend of 90% Syrah and 10% Grenache. While there are critics of Syrah grown in the southern Rhone, even the cynics agree that the old-vine Syrah from the Gard has a special character to it. This wine comes from 40+-year-old Syrah vines and 60+-year-old Grenache vines, bottled unfined and unfiltered after being aged in both tank and concrete. Dense ruby/purple, with a stunning nose of blackberry liqueur and jus de viande (beef/meat juices), it’s thrilling, intensely pure, full-bodied mouthfeel, good freshness, and striking floral character all combine for one of the very best bargains in dry red wine that readers are likely to find anywhere in the world. This is super and should continue to drink well for another 3-4 years.”

Italy

I wrote about  Cleto Chiarli’s Lambrusco ($10.99) in an earlier article in November 2011. It’s worth noting again the merits of this delicious fizz, in this context as a value sparkling wine: “Obtained by a careful grape selection of the ancient “Grasparossa” vine cultivated on the hills surrounding Castelvetro village in the Modena province. Deep ruby red color with a pink froth. Fruity aroma and palate, typical of this varietal, which are very pleasant indeed. Thanks to a rational and slow fermentation the wine has a distinct softness and delicacy. It can be a wine for dessert as well as a wine for the typical dishes of the local cuisine.” Dalla Terra Importer 

Argiano hit it out of the park with the new release of the 2009 Non Confunditur ($15.99). “Non Confunditur” is the Latin term written on Argiano’s crest and was the motto of the former owners, the Lovatelli Gaetani d’Aragona family. A blend of Tuscan and French grapes, the 2009 might be the best vintage for this wine I’ve tasted. Clove/allspice, savoury aromas. Black fruit, spice flavors. Juicy acidity adds a nice punch to the wine.

Two wines I’d highly recommend from Vietti winery in Piemonte are the 2009 Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne ($15.99) and the 2007 Barolo Castiglione ($39.99). Vietti winery writes about the Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne: “Ruby purple color with ripe red cherry aromas with hints of mineral and vanilla. A dry, medium bodied red wine with refreshing acidity and soft tannins. Well balanced with good integration of oak, good complexity and a finish of red cherries.” You might say $40.00 for a bottle of wine a value?  But hold on. The Barolo Castiglione bottlings from Vietti can, in most vintages, represent the best value in Barolo. The 2007 again, might represent the best value in Barolo. This wine is flying off the shelf and will easily eclipse the phenomenal success of the 2004 vintage. Rated 93 points from Antonio Galloni at The Wine Advocate, he writes: “The 2007 Barolo Castiglione deftly balances the open, radiant personality of the vintage with considerable underlying structure. Warm, dense and full-bodied, the 2007 Barolo Castiglione flows effortlessly across the palate with generous fruit and fabulous overall balance. The wine was even better when I tasted it from bottle a few months later. It is another overachieving wine from Vietti and a bottle that is exceedingly fairly priced.”

Spain

Celler Pinol’s Ludivicus Tinto ($10.99) is a must buy. A blend of Garnacha, Syrah and Carinena from the Terra Alta district in the Tarragona province of northeastern Spain. Lovely, pure, fresh berry flavors that possess a hint of tension in the finish. Delicious.

The 2010 Bielsa ‘Viñas Viejas’ Garnacha ($10.99) is another stellar, value offering from  this producer from Campo de Borja. Easy to like, uncomplicated aromas of raspberry, cranberry and cherry kirsch. Fleshy, seamless texture.

Howard Padgett, Imported Wine Buyer

Before tasting the wines, our special guest, Valentina Cirasola, gave a great presentation on the “The ItalianTable and Dining Etiquette.” Throughout the event Augustine and Angela Buonocore of La Biscotteria in Redwood City provided authentic and delicious focaccia, biscotti, and grissini to accompany our wines. Lastly, they treated us with delicious cannoli, to enjoy as a conclusion to our tasting.

The tasting itself was terrific, featuring selected Italian wines from lesser known regions and/or varietals. The theme, “Italian Wines, The Roads Less Traveled,” showcased our imported wines buyer, Howard Padgett’s, efforts in expanding our unique selection.

We started with the beautiful and very classy NV Monte Rossa Saten ($34.99) sparkling wine from Franciacorta in Lombardia, a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco fermented in bottle. Then followed the 2009 100% Petite Arvine white wine by Les Cretes. The texture is rich, but not heavy, floral nose, citrus and passion fruit with an obvious minerality. The Petite Arvine wines are terrific if you want something on the exotic side. We recommend the excellent 2009 Swiss bottling from Cave du Vieux-Moulin ($32.99) which we currently have in stock.

We tasted the 2010 “Praepositus” Kerner ($27.99) by Abbazia di Novacella from the Isarco Valley in the far northern region of the Alto Adige. Kerner, a cross-bred grape of Riesling and the red Schiava, purportedly gets its name from the name of a German writer of drinking songs. The Riesling influence is obvious with a subtle pear like character as well as minerality followed by fresh clean acidity.

The first red of the evening was a 2009 Pelaverga “Basadone” from Castello de Verduno ($21.99) in Piemonte. A lighter bodied wine, it reminded me of a cross between Nebbiolo and Bourgogne Rouge in weight and texture and had spicy overtones. The superb 2006 Tuscan red, Villa di Capezzana’s Carmignano ($25.99), located just west of Florence is a blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.  This wine showed good density, elegance, sweet red fruit, and a very persistent finish.

We had the opportunity to taste a grape that most people have never heard of, the 2006 Tazzelenghe, produced by Conte d’Attimis-Maniago ($32.99) in the Colli Orientali del Friuli. This was a fairly hearty and robust wine of dark red fruit and bright acidity. It is definitely a good wine for grilled or roasted meats and game. Then we tasted a Nebbiolo, but with a twist. This was the 2007 Sforzato di Valtellina “Albareda” ($54.99) by Mamete Prevostini, a wine made by drying the grapes (about 30 days) before fermentation. It was one of the overall favorites with beautiful dried floral and red fruit character. The last red, 2004 Montefalco Sagrantino by Terre de Trinci ($49.99), definitely made a bold statement. From the region of Umbria, the aromas and flavors were broad and complex, ranging from black fruit, slight vanilla and spices.

Then came the finale, and what a finale it was! We tasted the fabulous Sicilian 2007 L’Ecru Passito by Firriato ($34.99), a dessert wine which is a blend of Zibibbo and Malvasia. It showed scents of honey, orange peel and dried figs with a texture that really glides. It really is a fascinating exotic wine, and I highly recommend this for the upcoming holidays, or just anytime.

Gary M.,  Beltramo’s Wine Consultant