The two defining factors of this new AVA are proximity to the Pacific Ocean and elevation.  Almost all of the vineyards within the area lie between 900 – 1800 feet above sea level.  This is key since it puts them above the fog line allowing the grapes to benefit from more hours of sunlight throughout the day while still enjoying the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean.  While a prevalence of particular soil types are sometimes used in defining appellations, such is not the case for Fort Ross-Seaview.  Millions of years of interaction between the Pacific and North American tectonic plates have created a patchwork of soil types that tend to vary, even within a single vineyard.  This will certainly add to the intrigue as wine lovers become more familiar with Sonoma’s newest AVA.

Beltramo’s has long been enthusiastic about this unique region; not only for the terrain and climate but for the passionate individuals who have made the commitment to farm this land.  So much so that for the last four years we’ve partnered with Hirsch Vineyards to produce a $34.99 proprietary blend of Pinot Noir  that is unique to our store.  Here are a few other wines that exemplify what can be achieved it this exciting area.

Flowers ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay 2009 ($36.99) -  “Pale straw color. Pretty aromas of lime blossom, meringue and lemon zest are mirrored on the palate and underscored with subtle notes of fresh cut fennel, lemon thyme, and crisp comice pear. With a bright and refreshing acidity, this Chardonnay finishes with a mouthwatering minerality that is typical of the extreme Sonoma Coast. Delicious now, or cellar through 2014.” Flowers Winery

Peay ‘Estate’ Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2009 ($54.99) -  92 Points, The Wine Advocate: “The 2009 Chardonnay Estate is a vivid, multi-dimensional wine that captures the essence of the Peay style. Lemon, pear, butter, pastry and spices are nicely supported by underlying veins of minerality that give the wine its freshness and verve. The textural finesse of the finish alone is striking. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016.” Antonio Galloni   

Fort Ross ‘Symposium’ Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2009 ($26.99) -  “Vivid aromas of dark fruit with tiers of dusty cedar and black tea notes introduce this firm, focused, intense Pinot Noir. The 3% of Pinotage adds layers of sandalwood and earthy bramble to the concentrated core of dark berry, wild berry and black plum. There is purity to the finish where the vineyard’s signature minerality and acidity accompany the expansive fruit with great finesse.”  Fort Ross Winery

Hirsch Vineyards ‘San Andreas Fault’ Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2009 ($59.99) -  “Upon opening, Bing cherry, raspberries, figs and cola on the nose, with floral notes of lavender and orange blossom. Evolving with air to show forest floor, licorice and bergamot. On the palate, bright red fruit and a brambly juiciness are supported by profound tannins and an exceptional acidity.”   Hirsch Vineyards

Peay ‘Pomarium’ Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2010 ($54.99) -  “In the 2010, beautiful aromas of orange rind and red fruits are framed by tea, deep forest, and mushroom notes. The flavors in the mouth are similar though a brass and deep, tart, cherry note combine with the earthy, dried pine needle aromas. This is an incredibly well-balanced and appealing wine with low alcohol and focused fruit. The finish is clean and long. Really a superb wine. Age for 3-9+ years.” Peay Winery

 Mike Janeway, Beltramo’s Domestic Wine Buyer

I was fortunate to recruit a couple other members of the Beltramo’s team to join me on this endeavor.  Not only for their expert palates but also for some company on the almost four hour drive to Hirsch.  The vineyard and winery are perched at 1500 feet in the Sonoma Coast appellation near the tiny town of Cazadero and a mere three miles from the Pacific Ocean.  The roads leading there are narrow, twisty and unkempt.  The final mile is dirt.

Upon arrival David led us on a tour of the vineyard where he spoke about the history of the site, the geology of the land and the challenges of farming in such marginal conditions.  Next we adjourned to the cellar where we analyzed young wines from twenty or so different barrels.  These would be the ingredients for our final blend.  As we would learn, all vineyard blocks on the property (there are over 60) are vinified separately and aged in oak casks of varying age.  This allowed us to consider differences in clonal material, vine age, soil type, and oak influence in our blending decisions.   After reviewing our tasting notes we assembled a blend that we felt would represent our goal of producing a wine with balance, depth, complex aromatics, and near term accessibility as well as sufficient structure for at least ten years of cellaring.   The result of that first pilgrimage to the Hirsch Estate was 25 cases of our inaugural 2007 Beltramo’s ‘Hirsch Vineyard’ Pinot Noir.   The wine turned out exactly as we had hoped and was popular with customers.  I tasted one of those bottles recently and I’m happy to report that it is still in fabulous balance with some of the secondary aromas and flavors beginning to emerge and plenty of life remaining.

Today we are proud to offer our third custom blend Pinot Noir from Hirsch Vineyard.  The 2009 Hirsch Beltramo’s B Cuvee Pinot Noir is a wonderfully feminine wine with great tension on the palate, fully developed flavors and an alcohol level at a very moderate 13.2%.  Defined by high toned aromas of cherry, cranberry and raspberry on the nose, the wine also reveals a distinct note of green tea with a more subtle nuance of morel mushroom lingering in the background.  On the palate, a mélange of red fruit flavors are lifted by bright acidity and framed by silky tannin.  We feel that this elegant wine offers excellent food pairing versatility in the near term and at least a decade of cellaring potential for those with patience.  At $34.99 this wine is a serious bargain, and with only 50 cases produced, I’m hoping that it will last until our 2010 is ready to go.

–Mike Janeway , Domestic Wine Buyer