Francois Mitjavile, producer of St. Emilion’s famed Château Tertre Roteboeuf, upon seeing the beauty of the land and quality of the soils promptly purchased a 23 acre parcel of land in the Côtes de Bourg which he would come to call Roc De Cambes.  The vineyards lay on top of clay and limestone soils which feed the well aged vines, an average of 45 years old, which in turn produce the ripe and highly concentrated berries which eventually end up in the deft hands of Mr. Mitjavile and his staff.  Treating the Roc De Cambes vineyard as well as winemaking with the same care used at Tertre Roteboeuf, Mr. Mitjavile is able to coax the very best of what Côtes de Bourg can be.  These wines are a blend of predominantly Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with just a touch of Malbec.  The grapes are allowed ample hang time and picked only when ripe, even if that means waiting several weeks longer than the majority of the Côtes.  We currently have the 2009 Roc de Cambes for $64.99 – while exuberant and full of life now, it will benefit with a few years ageing.  However if you’re looking for the mature side of the Côtes de Bourg we have the more rustic and well evolved 2006 Roc de Cambes for $49.99.

Bill A., Beltramo’s Wine Consultant

The 2010 Côtes du Rhone ($18.99) as always, never fails to impress. Licorice, chocolate and black cherry aromas. Rich and ripe flavors that are fresh and juicy, hallmarks of the vintage.

The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape ‘Les Safres’($64.99) is a knockout. Unfortunately, the Wine Spectator publication thought so too and rated the wine 94 points out of 100. Inventory will go quickly. Don’t miss.

Lastly, the 2010 ‘Les Quartz’($89.99) is another effort with critical acclaim. The Wine advocate says: “The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Quartz’s deep purple color shows slightly more density and bluish tones than the 2009. Full-bodied and layered with copious blackberry and blueberry fruit, it is a voluptuously textured, pure, slightly tannic Chateauneuf du Pape that will benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring, and should last for 15-20 years.” (93-95) points. LIMITED

Any of these wines would be perfectly suited for your up-coming holiday table whether you’re serving a traditional roast turkey or a standing rib roast. Have a great holiday.

Howard Padgett, Imported Wine Buyer

Grapes, even or particularly the same grape varietal, grown in different places will produce wines that taste different from each other. I have yet to meet someone who, upon tasting a wine, says “mmm, it tastes like squished grapes” but I’ve tasted with many who say “hmm, definitely Old World, more Meursault than Chassagne.” Grapes can reflect where they’re grown far more distinctly than any fruit: a peach will taste like a peach wherever it will achieve ripeness, but Chardonnay grapes grown in Meursault will taste different than the ones grown and squished in Chassagne Montrachet. Or Russian River Valley, or Arroyo Grande, or Margaret River, or Casablanca Valley.

The United States is making progress in this area with AVAs that are smaller and more wineries being more specific about vineyards but the process here is really just starting. Italy and France are two of the oldest wine-growing regions in the world and relatively long ago codified the production and labeling of wine and based both things on where the grapes were grown. And after much planning and some effort, so do our shelves. So please stop by and peruse our Italian and French wines arranged, as they should be, according to the geography of those two countries. In looking through some of our French selections, as you walk up the aisle from the Côtes du Rhône in one corner to the Chablis at the end of the section, you’re figuratively taking a stroll through the vineyards of eastern France. In Italy, you’ll go from the islands of Sardinia & Sicily and walk all the way north to the Alto Adige.

Winding your way to and up Italy, I would suggest stopping to taste some squished grapes at the following points (general region included as an aid for both of us):

Sardegna – 2009 Argiolas Isola dei Nuraghi “Perderas” – $12.99

Puglia – 2011 Masseria Li Veli Valle d’Itria “Verdeca” – $17.99

Puglia – 2011 Monaci Rosato Salento “Kreos” – $12.99

Marche – 2011 Collestefano Verdicchio di Metalica – $14.99

Tuscany – 2006 Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino “Pertimali” – $59.99

Tuscany – 2006 Ciacci Piccolomini Brunello di Montalcino “Pianrosso” – $54.99

Tuscany – 2007 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino – $64.99

Tuscany – 2007 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino “Altero” – $79.99

Piemonte – 2009 Einaudi Dolcetto di Dogliani – $14.99

Piemonte – 2007 Sottimano Barbaresco “Curra” – $59.99

Piemonte – 2004 Damilano Barolo “Cannubi” – $79.99

Venezia Giulia – 2010 Jermann Ribolla Gialla “Vinnae” – $19.99

Alto Adige – 2010 Elena Walch Lagrein – $14.99

From there, it’s a few steps to start a trip through France (these ‘regions’ are more specific, for help check out the maps at the top of our shelves or ask us):

2010 Le Colombier Vacqueyras “Vieilles Vignes” – $19.99

2010 Le Colombier Vacqueyras “Cuvee G” – $21.99

2009 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape – $64.99

2010 Pierre Usseglio Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvee de mon Aieul” – $99.99

2009 Clape Cornas – $129.99

2009 Allemand Cornas “Reynard” – $99.99

2009 Allemand Cornas “Chaillot” – $84.99

2009 Ferret Pouilly-Fuisse – $29.99

2009 Michel Juillot Mercurey “Les Vignes de Maillonge” – $27.99

2010 Jean-Baptiste Ponsot Rully “Montpalais” – $21.99

2010 Seguinot-Bordet Chablis – $19.99

2010 Malandes Chablis “Vaudesir” - $49.99

2010 Fevre Chablis “Les CLos” – $89.99

This last trio of Chardonnay-based wines are a delicious example of how much dirt matters and how there can be a quality-based scale for wines produced from the same general area. They are, in order, a “village” wine from the AOC of Chablis, a Premier Cru and a Grand Cru. These gradations are based on hundreds of years of grapes being grown in the dirt involved, with some relatively minor influences from the weather and producers. A discussion of those nitty-gritty differences in dirt has more to do with geology, and therefore deserving of its own post but start here with the geography and see if one level wants to make you climb to the next. Unless of course you’d prefer to start at the top!

Matt S., Beltramo’s Wine Consultant

I have highlighted some of my personal favorites which showcase the diversity of the Sauvignon Blanc.  Please, join me on our international journey, and if you have any questions call me or stop by…

2010 Heritance, Napa Valley  ($16.99)  91 Points Wine Enthusiast: “Made without oak, this is a beautiful, stylish and elegant young wine to drink now. Blended with some Sémillon for buttery fat, it highlights lime, green grass, white peach and white pepper flavors, brightened with brisk acidity. Achieves an unusual level of control and complexity, especially at this price.”

2010 Benziger, Sonoma County ($11.99)  Bright citrus and floral aromas, followed by subtle notes of grapefruit, melon and lemon. The acidity has been softened by a touch of barrel aging, giving the wine a delicacy not often associated with Californian wines.

2009 Seresin, New Zealand ($14.99)   “91 points.  Bright yellow. Subdued, pure aromas of nectarine, spices, minerals, licorice and honey. Broad, concentrated, ripe and dry, with a tactile dusty texture to the pineappley fruit. Finishes chewy, savory and very persistent, with uncompromising dryness. Serious stuff.”   Stephen Tanzer, Wine Access, September 2011

2010 Le Claux Delorme, Loire Valley France ($12.99)   From the Valencay region, mid-way along the river comes a classy and classic example of a Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc.  Lemon and limes with delicate nuances of flint and mineral tones on the nose and the palate matches this in combination with touches of apricot and peach.

2010 Francis Blanchet Pouilly-Fume Cuvee Silice  ($21.99)  This wine also heralds from the Loire Region, but originates in Pouilly-Fume closer to the famed area of Sancere but on the opposite bank of the river. The wine is juicy, thirst quenching, with aromas of gun smoke, wet stone and delicate white flowers. Great tone and lift on the palate, lots of citrus with a hint of white pepper.

2010 Venica Ronco delle Mele, Fruili Italy ($34.99)   This wine originates from Friuli in Northeastern Italy. The nose is very expressive, exotic flowers and a hint of pear.  A soft texture on the palate with hints of apricot, peach and citrus rinds. Very complex for a Sauvignon Blanc: my personal favorite.

James D-B., Beltramo’s Wine Consultant

Australia

The Yalumba winery produces high quality from $10.00 to $100.00. The Y Series wines across the board are bargains worth your attention. I particularly liked the 2010 Cabernet ($10.99). Winsor Dobbin, Sauce Magazine – Tasmania (Aus) writes: “The Yalumba Y wines are a perfect option when cash is tight and you need a quality bottle of wine. The 2010 Cabernet is a dark purple color with blackcurrant, crushed flower and violet aromas, full-blooded fruit flavors with spice, oak and mocha notes. In short it’s a quality cabernet offering lots of bang for your buck.”

Pewsey Vale Winery continues to turn out some of the finest, juicy, mouthwatering dry Rieslings for value on the planet. The 2011 Eden Valley Riesling  ($14.99) is no exception. Produced from cool climate, high altitude vineyards, this Riesling sizzles with lime/citrus, hard candy and mineral aromas and flavors. Beautiful palate feel, mouth-coating and long.

France

I had the opportunity to taste through the new releases from Domaine Cazes last year in France. The wineries specialties are the delicious sweet wines from Rivesaltes, but they also make tasty table wines. Try the 2010 Le Canon du Marechal Blanc ($12.99). This was one of my favorite whites from my trip through southern France. An aromatic, delicate white blend of Muscat and Viognier made of Certified Bio-dynamic grapes.

Another find from southern France made exclusively from Viognier is Chateau de Pennautier’s  Viognier de Pennautier ($10.99). This winery dates back to 1620 and made their first wines in 1701. If you want to taste what Viognier is like without the influence of heavy-handed barrel spice, this wines for you. Pure, fragrant, floral, peach aromas and flavors. Never heavy or sweet. Clean and fresh. Compare to California Viognier at two to three times the price.

A miniscule 500 cases of the delicious 2010 Chateau Astruc Ste Eulalie Minervois ($10.99) is produced. An impressive blend of Syrah, Carignan, and Grenache, this wine is a knockout. Sophisticated aromas of violets, gentle smoke, spice and berries. Fleshy, impeccable balance. A top-notch alternative to more expensive Rhône wines.

2010 will be another very good to excellent year for the Rhône and Southern France as you can tell by my enthusiasm for the afore mentioned wines. Domaine Paul Autard’s Côtes du Rhône ($12.99) is good barometer of the quality produced from the region in 2010. Importer Russel Herman writes:”The Côtes du Rhône is made from 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah grapes just outside the Châteauneuf du Pape appellation in Courthezon. It’s a smoky, complex wine loaded with warm raspberry fruit, showing many of the best attributes of Châteauneuf du Pape. It is ready for current drinking… and represents one of the best values from southern France.”

Another tasty value from the Rhône in 2010 is the Les Vignerons d’Estezargues d’Andezon Côtes du Rhône ($10.99). Robert Parker The Wine Advocate rated this wine 91 points and says: “The classic cuvee, which has long been selected by importer Eric Solomon, is their 2010 Domaine d’Andezon, a blend of 90% Syrah and 10% Grenache. While there are critics of Syrah grown in the southern Rhone, even the cynics agree that the old-vine Syrah from the Gard has a special character to it. This wine comes from 40+-year-old Syrah vines and 60+-year-old Grenache vines, bottled unfined and unfiltered after being aged in both tank and concrete. Dense ruby/purple, with a stunning nose of blackberry liqueur and jus de viande (beef/meat juices), it’s thrilling, intensely pure, full-bodied mouthfeel, good freshness, and striking floral character all combine for one of the very best bargains in dry red wine that readers are likely to find anywhere in the world. This is super and should continue to drink well for another 3-4 years.”

Italy

I wrote about  Cleto Chiarli’s Lambrusco ($10.99) in an earlier article in November 2011. It’s worth noting again the merits of this delicious fizz, in this context as a value sparkling wine: “Obtained by a careful grape selection of the ancient “Grasparossa” vine cultivated on the hills surrounding Castelvetro village in the Modena province. Deep ruby red color with a pink froth. Fruity aroma and palate, typical of this varietal, which are very pleasant indeed. Thanks to a rational and slow fermentation the wine has a distinct softness and delicacy. It can be a wine for dessert as well as a wine for the typical dishes of the local cuisine.” Dalla Terra Importer 

Argiano hit it out of the park with the new release of the 2009 Non Confunditur ($15.99). “Non Confunditur” is the Latin term written on Argiano’s crest and was the motto of the former owners, the Lovatelli Gaetani d’Aragona family. A blend of Tuscan and French grapes, the 2009 might be the best vintage for this wine I’ve tasted. Clove/allspice, savoury aromas. Black fruit, spice flavors. Juicy acidity adds a nice punch to the wine.

Two wines I’d highly recommend from Vietti winery in Piemonte are the 2009 Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne ($15.99) and the 2007 Barolo Castiglione ($39.99). Vietti winery writes about the Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne: “Ruby purple color with ripe red cherry aromas with hints of mineral and vanilla. A dry, medium bodied red wine with refreshing acidity and soft tannins. Well balanced with good integration of oak, good complexity and a finish of red cherries.” You might say $40.00 for a bottle of wine a value?  But hold on. The Barolo Castiglione bottlings from Vietti can, in most vintages, represent the best value in Barolo. The 2007 again, might represent the best value in Barolo. This wine is flying off the shelf and will easily eclipse the phenomenal success of the 2004 vintage. Rated 93 points from Antonio Galloni at The Wine Advocate, he writes: “The 2007 Barolo Castiglione deftly balances the open, radiant personality of the vintage with considerable underlying structure. Warm, dense and full-bodied, the 2007 Barolo Castiglione flows effortlessly across the palate with generous fruit and fabulous overall balance. The wine was even better when I tasted it from bottle a few months later. It is another overachieving wine from Vietti and a bottle that is exceedingly fairly priced.”

Spain

Celler Pinol’s Ludivicus Tinto ($10.99) is a must buy. A blend of Garnacha, Syrah and Carinena from the Terra Alta district in the Tarragona province of northeastern Spain. Lovely, pure, fresh berry flavors that possess a hint of tension in the finish. Delicious.

The 2010 Bielsa ‘Viñas Viejas’ Garnacha ($10.99) is another stellar, value offering from  this producer from Campo de Borja. Easy to like, uncomplicated aromas of raspberry, cranberry and cherry kirsch. Fleshy, seamless texture.

Howard Padgett, Imported Wine Buyer

To understand the nature of these wines we must first look at the actual wines of the Rhône valley, upon which these California wines are based.   The Côtes du Rhône appellation is situated in the south-eastern corner of France and follows the river Rhône from the town of Avignon in the south to Vienne in the north.  This great wine region is split distinctly into two sub-regions, the Northern and Southern Rhône, both producing wines of great depth and character.

The Southern Rhône valley has a very distinctly Mediterranean climate with a terrain littered with herbal scrub, olive groves and vineyards filled with stony soils and rocky outcrops.  This area is also susceptible to the whims of ‘Le Mistral,’ an occasionally violent wind which continually makes its presence known.  The most notable aspect of the Southern Rhône valley is that there are a vast amount of grape varieties to choose from, with the majority of red wines being blends of at least three different varietals, predominantly Grenache, Syrah and Mouvedre, creating wines of great complexity with a pleasing warming herbaceous quality.

The Northern Rhône is in stark contrast to the south both in climate and in its wines.  Whilst retaining some of the Mediterranean influence, there is a distinctly continental climate feel creating warmer summers and colder winters, resulting in a region that has more in common with its neighbor to the north, Burgundy.  The Northern Rhône is also focused on creating wines of a single grape variety, specifically Syrah for the reds and Viognier the whites.  Syrah from this area produces great inky colored wines with notes of white pepper and subtle gamey tones, yet retaining the finesse so often associated with the great wines of Burgundy.

With some basic knowledge of the Rhône Valley and its wines, it becomes easier to understand and see parallels with many of the winegrowing regions of the West Coast.  For instance, the predominant areas with Rhône Valley varietals on the West Coast follow the Pacific Ocean from the town of Temecula in Southern California to Bellingham in Northern Washington.  The climate in Southern California is also much closer to that of the Mediterranean with a drier, more arid landscape with the Northern states of Oregon and Washington having a climate much more in common with the cooler regions of Burgundy and Bordeaux, with higher rainfall and colder winters.

The main difference between the Rhône Valley and the West Coast is that there are no clear dividing lines  for areas making single varietal wines (Syrah in the Northern Rhône) and areas making blended wines (Southern Rhône reds).  Instead, both of these styles of wine can be found in some form or another along the entire coastline from Southern California to Northern Washington. 

One of the pioneering areas of Southern Rhône style wines is the Paso Robles AVA (American Viticultural Area ) and surrounding wine regions of the South-Central Coast. The wine makers of this area coined the term ‘The Rhone Rangers’, which formed in the 1980’s and is now a non-profit organization to promote Rhône style wines.  Wine makers at the forefront of this movement include John Alban of Alban Wineries, Bob Lindquist of Qupe Cellars and Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon.  It was Grahm who formed the movement in 1983. 

I have recently tasted through some of the wines available from this area with excellent results. The Qupe Syrah ($13.99) from California’s Central Coast is an intensely inky wine with deep blueberry fruit, herbaceous undertones and notes of black pepper and spice, reminiscent of some of the few examples of single varietal Syrah in the Southern Rhône Valley.  Tasting wines from this area and not including one from Paso Robles would be reprehensible. Luckily, the Vina Robles ‘Red 4’ ($11.99) was on hand and certainly did not disappoint.  This wine, comprised of a blend of Petite Syrah, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, creates a wine with supple black fruit and a warming lingering finish.

Moving north through the central coast and into one of California’s most famous wine producing regions of Napa and Sonoma counties you will begin to find even more fine examples of Rhône Valley style wines.  One important factor to take into consideration here is that most of the wines which closely represent this style will be found in Sonoma County, particularly Sonoma Coast AVA.  The reason for this is the cool breezes and mystical fog rolling in from the Pacific Ocean which serves to cool the vines and create a wine closer in style to that of the Northern Rhône, with a certain subtlety of flavor and earthy complexity.  A fine example of a 100% Syrah wine from Sonoma Coast is the Bodega Rancho ‘Que Syrah Vineyard’ ($26.99), situated in the south western corner of this diverse AVA, where the evening fog lingers to keep the vineyards cool until the early morning and often through to mid-day.  This is the perfect wine to bridge the gap between old and new world styles with good brambly black fruit and rich texture yet retaining subtle spice and an underlying gamey quality.

The penultimate wine to mention for this comparison is from the northern reaches of California’s wine growing areas in Mendocino County (100 miles northwest of San Francisco).  The climate and topography of this area is very complex with both coastal and inland influences.  Also, there are many valley floor areas while some soar in elevation to the heights of our next wine: Aldrich Browne ‘Mariah Vineyard’ Syrah ($32.99).  The vines are perched precariously at 2,600 feet above sea level, leaving the resulting wine with a very complex and intense meaty, leathery tone and soft supple fruit, reminiscent of a fine Northern Rhone wine.

To finish off this tour of West Coast wines we will be looking at Washington State in the Pacific Northwest.  Contrary to the fact that Washington resides so far northward, the wines produced in this region tend to have a warmer climate feel to them than those of Oregon.  This is largely due to the majority of Washington wines being produced on the Eastern side of the Cascades Mountains, protecting the vines from the rain and cooler weather found on the Western side where Oregon wines are produced.  Given the geography of this region it is of no surprise that Washington Rhône style wines have a distinctly Southern Rhône Valley feel to them with blended varietals and a warming herbaceous edge.  This is in evidence when tasting Doyenne ‘Metier’ ($38.99), a red blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre which encompasses all the character of a great Châteauneuf Du Pape with excellent weight and texture, aromas of lavender and bramble fruits with a deliciously long finish.

With such a vast array of wine styles spread along the entirety of the Pacific Coastline, what better way to compliment this year’s Christmas feast than with one of our great West Coast Rhône Valley style wines. 

Happy tasting…

Christian B., Beltramo’s Wine Consultant

The 2008 vintage was challenging in most of the ways that the weather in Burgundy presents; a little too cool, a little too moist, some hail here & there, not enough sunshine. There was a need for constant vigilance and work in the vineyards to ward off myriad issues, and in early August there was real concern about the quality of the fruit. Then the sun came out, the wind picked up and in short time the vintage was saved, and some marvelous wines began to take shape. The 2009 vintage was easy by comparison – a timely and uneventful start, spurts of rain when needed, ample sunshine but not excessive heat and a lack of drama all the way through harvest. Most vignerons talk of 2009 as a relatively easy vintage, good sugar levels came naturally and the sorting work was not even strenuous. These contrasting weather patterns led to grapes and wines that are an intriguing contrast, the classic coiled mix of pleasant and potential in the 2008s and the sensuous textures not quite hiding the vineyards’ terroir in the 2009s.

To get a taste of that coiled intensity along with a definite dose of pleasure inherent in a 2008, try either of the Michel Niellon bottlings we have – the Chassagne Montrachet A.C. ($44.99)or Chassagne “Clos Saint Jean”($69.99). Both of these are white Burgundies in the classic style, offering a mineral tone bestowed by limestone and a balancing act between fruit and acid bestowed by Mother Nature. Along the same line we still have three wines to offer from Philippe Colin, his Chassagne A.C. ($39.99), Chassagne Les Chenevottes ($59.99) and Chassagne Les Vergers ($59.99). The vineyard bottlings offer more than the usual step up from the village in complexity, detail and length. They are wines that provide marvelous flexibility; they are far more than accessible now but as you linger over the last third of the bottle you get a clearer sense of what awaits down the road. For those who want to kick it a notch higher, we can still offer the Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagnes from Bonneau du Martray ($114.99) and Bouchard ($129.99). Both of these beauties tried to squeeze into the mould of 2008 but broke through with a richness of fruit that leaves one dazzled and pondering whether a Grand Cru from a vintage such as ‘08 should be so delicious at this stage.

The red Burgundies from 2008 are destined to forever live in the shadow of their big-brother ‘09s and are only recently beginning to show the true measure of their charm. They are also classically styled wines, with complex but comparatively reserved aromatics that are always indicative of their source and a sense of elegant restraint that the more flamboyant ‘09s cannot and do not have. The best examples of this we have remaining are Voillot’s Volnay Fremiets ($59.99), Serafin’s Gevrey Chambertin ($27.99) and Grivot’s Nuits St Georges  Ronciere ($89.99). These three will all tell you where they come from and that you will be very amply rewarded for your patience with them, via either decanter or cellar. Or ideally both. It would be a great disservice to write about 2008 red Burgundies without mentioning the wines of Robert Chevillon, which are among the best wines we’ve tasted this year. Buy them and taste everything you are looking for in a red Burgundy.  It’s really that simple and we’re fortunate to be able to offer six different vineyards: Bousselots ($74.99), Chaignots ($74.99), Pruliers ($74.99), Roncieres ($74.99), Cailles (89.99) and Vaucrains (89.99).

The white Burgundies of 2009 share some of the same fate as the red 2008s, they trail a great vintage for whites and are almost an afterthought in discussing 2009. This is truly unfortunate, since there were excellent wines made from the generous material of 2009, wines with a rich but not unfocused character that offer a Burgundian soul underneath the inherent flesh. From just north and south of the Cote d’Or come Seguinot Bordet’s Chablis Vaillons ($21.99) and Lassarat’s Macon-Vergisson La Roche ($21.99). Both of these wines offer a clear indication of where they come from: the Chablis has beautiful chalkiness and a hint of salinity, and the Macon-Vergisson a complexity and length that belie the age of the vineyards. Both also bear the stamp of 2009, an exuberant richness that flows from nose to tail and make them a pleasure to drink … now! If you’re wanting wines that are more of the traditional Burgundian balancing act, even in ‘09, buy some Fichet wines while we still have them. The Meursault A.C. ($49.99) and Les Gruyaches ($69.99) offer the flesh of ‘09 within an ‘08 structure, everything in its place and a place for everything without feeling constrained or limited and with ample ageing potential.

The red Burgundies from 2009 really do not need further praise, which is not to say that what they’ve received is undeserved – nothing further from the truth but perhaps enough is enough. Some Burgundy fans will say that the ‘09s offer too much pleasure, too much ripeness and flesh, that they are too close akin to California’s Pinot Noirs. They certainly are closer to the California model than most years but even with the rich aromatics, plush textures and softer finishes on most 2009s they are still Burgundy, possessing a sense of place visible under the deliciousness. To be your own judge, try one of the great values we have on hand, Voillot’s Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes ($24.99). Then try any or all of these three: Pavelot Savigny-les-Beaune Dominode ($54.99), Muzard Santenay Clos des Mouches ($39.99) and Gros Frere Clos Vougeot Musigni ($135.00). If you don’t agree that these have the mark of ‘09 but also of Burgundy, let’s talk about it … and decide what test to open next.

Matt S.,  Beltramo’s Assistant Manager