Sicily produces an astonishing variety of wines ranging from crisp aromatic whites, light and fruity reds, deep rich reds loaded with dark chocolate and spice, all the way through to luscious sweet wines and Marsala packed full off candied fruit peel and toasty almond richness.  The island is separated into various DOC zones planted to a phenomenal range of indigenous varietals, usually planted in specific areas to make best use of the soil types, high elevations, sun exposure, and volcanic soils courtesy of the ever present Mount Etna.

If you ever find yourself stopping off for lunch after a casual stroll around the western side of the island, it would not be complete without sampling a nicely chilled glass of Donnafugata ‘Anthilia’ 2010 ($12.99). A blend of Ansonica and Catarratto, this is an elegant wine with hints of white peach and a crisp yet lingering finish. 

After enjoying some of the delicious white wines, the reds really begin to pick up the pace, and with so many different varieties and styles available there is something for everyone.  For the Pinot Noir lovers out there, getting hold of a bottle of Antica Tenuta Del Nanfro Frappato 2009 ($18.99) is an absolute must.  Made with 100% Frappato, this is a light and delicate wine packed full of bright berry fruits with a subtle hint of spice, finishing with very gentle tannins.  This would make a perfect accompaniment to antipasti and dishes on the lighter side.  Considering Sicily is one of the world’s largest olive producers it would be a crime not to include a few alongside this wine.  On the heavier end of the spectrum lies the Nero D’avola grape, a classic Sicilian varietal expressed beautifully in the Firriato ‘Harmonium’ 2007 ($35.99), a richly textured wine with great persistence on the palate, balanced with intense barrel spice and floral high notes.

If you are looking for something with a hint of adventure, the eastern edge of the island is home to the Etna DOC with may of its vineyards covering the slopes of Mount Etna – the largest active volcano in Europe.  This DOC produces wines that are very different in style to other parts of Sicily, owing to its very particular soil types and high elevation, producing wines closer in style to those of Burgundy or Barolo.  An excellent example is the Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso Santo Spirito 2009 ($49.99).  Etna Rosso wines are composed of a minimum of 80% Nerello Mascalese with the remaining being made up of a varietal called Cappuccio.

Sicily also has a great reputation for its sweet wines and Marsala, perfect for finishing off a meal in style.  Some of the greatest sweet wines actually come from an island called Pantelleria, located in the strait of Sicily, approximately 50 miles off teh coast of Tunisia.  A fine example is the D’ancona ‘Cimillya’ Passito di Pantelleria 2005 ($49.99) made from the Zibbibo member of the Moscato family. A Passito wine is typically of higher quality than a basic Moscato; the grapes are dried or ‘raisined’ creating a higher alcohol and sugar content which leads to a rich, luscious and decadently sweet experience.

If this Passito is not enough for you, try one of Sicily’s fortified Marsalas, a cask-aged, sweet, rich wine with toasted nutty aromas.  The Marco de Bartoli “Vigna la Miccia” ($39.99) is an excellent example of this style and will end a meal perfectly with the flavors lingering on the palate well into the evening.

After enjoying some of the amazing variety of wines on offer from this beautiful Mediterranean Island, you may find yourself sharing, as I do, the philosophy of the great Don Corleone himself:

     Don Corleone: “I like to drink wine more than I used to. Anyway, I’m drinking more.”

     Michael Corleone: “It’s good for ya’ pop.”

Christian B., Beltramo’s Wine Consultant

Before tasting the wines, our special guest, Valentina Cirasola, gave a great presentation on the “The ItalianTable and Dining Etiquette.” Throughout the event Augustine and Angela Buonocore of La Biscotteria in Redwood City provided authentic and delicious focaccia, biscotti, and grissini to accompany our wines. Lastly, they treated us with delicious cannoli, to enjoy as a conclusion to our tasting.

The tasting itself was terrific, featuring selected Italian wines from lesser known regions and/or varietals. The theme, “Italian Wines, The Roads Less Traveled,” showcased our imported wines buyer, Howard Padgett’s, efforts in expanding our unique selection.

We started with the beautiful and very classy NV Monte Rossa Saten ($34.99) sparkling wine from Franciacorta in Lombardia, a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco fermented in bottle. Then followed the 2009 100% Petite Arvine white wine by Les Cretes. The texture is rich, but not heavy, floral nose, citrus and passion fruit with an obvious minerality. The Petite Arvine wines are terrific if you want something on the exotic side. We recommend the excellent 2009 Swiss bottling from Cave du Vieux-Moulin ($32.99) which we currently have in stock.

We tasted the 2010 “Praepositus” Kerner ($27.99) by Abbazia di Novacella from the Isarco Valley in the far northern region of the Alto Adige. Kerner, a cross-bred grape of Riesling and the red Schiava, purportedly gets its name from the name of a German writer of drinking songs. The Riesling influence is obvious with a subtle pear like character as well as minerality followed by fresh clean acidity.

The first red of the evening was a 2009 Pelaverga “Basadone” from Castello de Verduno ($21.99) in Piemonte. A lighter bodied wine, it reminded me of a cross between Nebbiolo and Bourgogne Rouge in weight and texture and had spicy overtones. The superb 2006 Tuscan red, Villa di Capezzana’s Carmignano ($25.99), located just west of Florence is a blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.  This wine showed good density, elegance, sweet red fruit, and a very persistent finish.

We had the opportunity to taste a grape that most people have never heard of, the 2006 Tazzelenghe, produced by Conte d’Attimis-Maniago ($32.99) in the Colli Orientali del Friuli. This was a fairly hearty and robust wine of dark red fruit and bright acidity. It is definitely a good wine for grilled or roasted meats and game. Then we tasted a Nebbiolo, but with a twist. This was the 2007 Sforzato di Valtellina “Albareda” ($54.99) by Mamete Prevostini, a wine made by drying the grapes (about 30 days) before fermentation. It was one of the overall favorites with beautiful dried floral and red fruit character. The last red, 2004 Montefalco Sagrantino by Terre de Trinci ($49.99), definitely made a bold statement. From the region of Umbria, the aromas and flavors were broad and complex, ranging from black fruit, slight vanilla and spices.

Then came the finale, and what a finale it was! We tasted the fabulous Sicilian 2007 L’Ecru Passito by Firriato ($34.99), a dessert wine which is a blend of Zibibbo and Malvasia. It showed scents of honey, orange peel and dried figs with a texture that really glides. It really is a fascinating exotic wine, and I highly recommend this for the upcoming holidays, or just anytime.

Gary M.,  Beltramo’s Wine Consultant