In more recent time, California is often known for big and beefy Napa Cabernet and rich and fruity Chardonnay, both very popular styles for good reason. However, California is well known for having the gift of numerous micro climates, innovative wine makers, and a variety of soils that to this day continue to buck tradition and deliver wines of similar earthiness and old world style, while still retaining key characteristics that put California wine on the map in the first place. Come along as we explore off the beaten path, and find a vaguely familiar, but very different sense of place. Like a toast at the beginning of a meal, we begin with sparkling wine.

In Champagne, the traditional method of making a sparkling wine in which the wine undergoes a secondary fermentation inside the bottle, is a practice that had been perfected by monks by hundreds of years of trial and error, and is used today to great affect by Roederer Estate in Anderson Valley, Mendocino. Founded in early 1980 by Louis Roederer, president of the world renowned Champagne Louis Roederer, Anderson Valley was selected for its cooler microclimate and favorable soils. At $17.99 per bottle, Roederer Estate Brut NV is a California sparkling wine that stays true to its traditional origins, the end result being a sparkling wine with excellent effervescence, creamy texture, and bready aromas yielding to a fruity bouquet, and will cost you a lot less than most entry level Champagne. Cheers to that!

One important philosophy in France that has become just as important here in California is that of “Terroir,” or a sense of place. In Chablis, that sense of place is defined by the cool crisp air and the limestone rich kimmeridgian soils that help bring out the acid of the Chardonnay grape, and lend to it its signature mineral character. A similar sense of place can be found in the area of Portola Valley within the northern part of the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, were Chardonnay specialist Varner has situated itself. In an area with great diversity in soil, the Amphitheater Block sits on a bed of limestone rich, clay and loam soil similar of Chablis’ kimmeridgian, and enjoys a consistently cool climate. Along with very subtle oak and little to no butteriness, 2010 Varner Amphitheater Chardonnay is steely and mineraly with crisp acidity, without going overboard with California’s signature pineapple flavors. At $43.99, it is an excellent chardonnay that can stand up to some of the best of Chablis, and is excellent with the local sea food catch in the bay area.

Lastly, continuing on with the importance of terroir, the Côte de Nuits of Burgundy is well known for its Pinot Noir of great structure and assertiveness, thanks to the chalky soils that help bring out the acid and minerality that Pinot Noir thrives best in. No one outside of Burgundy knows this better then Josh Jenson, founder of Mt. Harlan AVA’s exclusive vineyard, Calera. Jensen, having personally worked harvests for Domaine Romanee-Conti in Vosne Romanee and Domaine Dujac in Morey St Denis, experienced first-hand the importance of chalky subsoil and cooler climate for Pinot Noir, and searched all over California looking for the perfect spot for his winery, eventually finding himself in the Gabilan Mountains of San Benito County, where he took over the derelict remains of an old limestone quarry and single handedly established Mt Harlan as an AVA. With six vineyards dedicated to Pinot Noir, the characteristics of one vineyard right next to another vary wildly, very much like the vineyards in the Côte de Nuits. The 2009 Ryan vineyard for $37.99 is rich and robust, however yields great complexity of fruit and earth with decanting, and can age for a long time. A far cry from Hearty Burgundy!

The wine world is finicky and constantly changing. Old ideologies that were once mainstream, like the belief that Old World has finesse and earthiness while New World is fruit driven and plush, quickly grow out of date with each passing vintage. Even in the Old World there are more and more producers who create wines that embrace newer world styles that can throw off even the most studious of Sommeliers. To keep up with the constantly changing world of wine, and to get the most out of the beverage you have grown to love, I will always recommend to push one’s boundaries, and to expect the unexpected. Saluté!

James L., Beltramo’s Wine Consultant

This is a situation that may be all too familiar to many of our Rombauer loving customers and not only here at Beltramo’s. Every summer, due to strict store allocations and massive consumer demand, Rombauer Chardonnay has a tendency to dry up and disappear until the Fall, leaving many Rombauer Chard loyalists longing for their favorite creamy, rich tropical elixir. However, there is no reason to panic. Your personal wine consultants here at Beltramo’s have you covered with a vast knowledge of full bodied California Chardonnays to help you survive the summer heat, and maybe even find a new favorite!

First we start off with a charming and affordable Chardonnay from Sonoma’s Russian River Valley, the 2010 L’Oliveto (available in-store only). This lightly rich Chardonnay yields great complexity, with zangy aromas of lemon grass and tropical fruits, followed by a round and slightly buttery mouth feel. For Rombauer enthusiasts planning for a large event that would like to supply guests with multiple bottles at an affordable cost, L’Oliveto most certainly fits the bill.

Now let’s say that the weekend hasn’t come yet, or you don’t have any big dinner dates planned for the evening. Rombauer can get a little pricey for every day drinking. From the esteemed Sleepy Hollow Vineyard, 2010 Talbott Logan Chardonnay is convenient and frugal at $17.99, but by no means should it be looked at as inferior to the premier Talbott Chardonnay ($29.99). Both are from the same lauded Sleepy Hollow Vineyard; however, Logan is grown on younger vines, thus lending itself to a modest price. The nose is a bouquet of creamy apricots and honey suckle leading up to a rich, full bodied palate with a long smooth and refreshing finish, perfect for the middle of the week.

With the weekdays taken care of, we now tackle the main cause for arms of this article: what do you do when there is no Rombauer? First, don’t panic. Second, grab yourself a bottle of 2009 Solitude. Like Rombauer, this Chardonnay is sourced from the Carneros, but that is not the end of the two chardonnay’s similarities. The wine maker for Solitude, Richard Litsch, is also an old Rombauer alumnus, having worked for Rombauer producing their award-winning Chardonnay. Featuring that same smooth, full bodied richness that Rombauer fans know and love, Solitude is layered with complex notes of cream coconut, passion fruit, and lemon zest, truly a triumphant homage to its foundation! Oh, did we also mention that it is a few dollars cheaper at $26.99?

Our last scenarios for this article are for that significant other, that best friend, or maybe even that boss or colleague at work. You are looking for a special bottle of wine for that special occasion, and perhaps you know that they are fond of full bodied California Chardonnays. At Beltramo’s you have many options of eclectic and rare Chardonnays to choose from, but we will stick to a California staple; Kistler. The most affordable of Kistler’s Chardonnays, the Sonoma Mountain 2010, is elegant and Burgundian in style. A symphony of stone and tropical fruits intertwine with subtle minerality and toasty richness, the Kistler Sonoma Mountain can be enjoyed immediately, but shines it’s best after a couple short years of age. At $59.99, it is luxurious without breaking the bank, and would compliment anyone’s cellar, or accompanied by a hearty steamed lobster with a light butter sauce and a spring salad.

As demand increases and yields remain relatively the same, not every fan will always be able to have their favorite Chardonnay. However, as this list will show you, there are always new hidden gems and award-winning Chardonnays around every corner, and your personal wine consultants here at Beltramo’s have done all the research for you to match you with the wine that is right for you. There are many delicious Chardonnays from a variety of styles and prices to choose from, so get out there and start trying them! There might not always be a Rombauer for all occasions, but there is always a right Chardonnay.

James LaMar, Beltramo’s Wine Consultant

In many ways, Chardonnay is a victim of its own success.  It is by far the most widely planted wine grape in California (and Washington, for that matter) because it can be grown just about anywhere a vine will grow and still produce a marketable product.  It is also a grape that is acquiescent to a wide range of wine-making styles.   It can be refreshingly clean and light when done in stainless steel and kept from malolactic fermentation.   While at the other end of the spectrum you can find opulently textured examples aged in toasty oak and dripping with buttery richness.  And let’s not forget Chardonnay’s prowess in the arena of sparkling wine.  The grape’s versatility has allowed it to satisfy a wide range of consumers, but it has also led many producers to make wines that fall flat while attempting to be everything to everyone. 

Thankfully for Chardonnay lovers, there are more top quality options on the market these days than I have seen in many years.  The folks who really want to excel with this grape are making every effort to exalt terrior, pursue balance and  preserve subtleties that are often masked by too much intervention in the cellar.  At Beltramo’s we currently have close to 200 Domestic Chardonnay selections.  The following are a few of the growing group that adeptly embrace the fine qualities this grape has to offer.

2009 Shafer ‘Red Shoulder Ranch’ Carneros ($42.99) – Shafer’s single-vineyard Carneros-grown Chardonnay is produced from small-clustered clones of grapes selected for their low yields and distinctive flavors. Fermentation takes place within individual oak and stainless steel barrels using native yeasts. The wine matures on the lees for 14 months and since it undergoes no malolactic fermentation this Chardonnay retains a lively natural acidity.  “The 2009 offers lush, luxurious aromas and flavors of melon, honeysuckle, apricot, pineapple and flint all held together with bright acidity, good structure and elegant balance.”  Winemaker Elias Fernandez

2009 Peay ‘Estate’ Sonoma Coast ($54.99) – “In most vintages, the Estate Chardonnay has a   mineral and citrus character that makes this Chardonnay unique among the vast sea of Chardonnays available. The 2009 Estate Chardonnay combines that character with the intensity we seek. The nose shows youthful pear and lemon/vanilla custard notes. With time the robustness of flavors will become part of the vibrant and powerful wet slate, citrus and lead pencil flavored mid-palate. The finish is brisk and persistent with superb acidity and cut.” Peay winery

2009 Walter Hansel ‘Cahill Lane’ Russian River Valley ($38.99) – “The 2009 Chardonnay Cahill Lane (from the old Wente clone off a vineyard in front of Hansel’s house) is a deeper wine offering notes of white peaches, pears, white currants, unbuttered popcorn, hazelnuts and subtle smoke. It is a perfumed, medium to full-bodied white that admirably showcases the purity and elegance of this vintage for Burgundian varietals.”  Robert Parker

2009 Paul Hobbs ‘Richard Dinner Vineyard’ Sonoma Mountain ($69.99) -  “The Richard Dinner Vineyard is our source for the exquisite chardonnay upon which we founded our portfolio in 1991. With a lustrous golden hue it displays lively aromas of tropical fruits, lemon custard and fresh figs. Richly textured and fully elegant, the structured palate comes alive with succulent flavors of orange blossom, citrus oil, fresh pear and dulce de leche. A creamy, seemingly unstoppable finish is enhanced by the wine’s hallmark crushed mineral characteristics.” Paul Hobbs Winery

 Mike Janeway, Domestic Wine Buyer